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Old 11-03-2011, 01:39 PM   #1
Rob C
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Default 1996 DCS--Solenoid Clicks Won't Move

So let me set the scene. I purchased this cart about 5 years ago. Shortly after buying it I added a lift kit and 20" tires. We just use the cart to drive around the neighborhood. Nothing off road or extreme. I replaced the batteries about 3 years ago but I have always had problems with the "new" batteries. I did not charge them immediately after I put them in the cart. I assumed that they were ready to go. I forget the brand but it was nothing that I had ever heard of before....a mechanice at our plant who works on our carts got them for me. After driving it for 15 minutes with the new batteries the cart died and I've had battery problems (at least I'm assuming it was battery problems) ever since. We didn't use the cart much over the next 3 years and the batteries seemed to always be dead. They would get so drained that I would plug the charger in and it would not even kick on. I'd charge each battery individually for several hours and this was generally enough to get the charger to kick on and charge them. But then they would only last for 20 or 30 minutes and then be dead again.

The cart mostly sat because (I assume) the batteries were toast. About 2 months I again tried to charge the batteries individually with a standard charger and the charger would turn on initially and then click every 10 seconds or so and the needle was bouncing all over the place.....but it would never charge the batteries. So I decided to bite the bullet and buy new batteries.

I purchased new Trojan T-105s last week. I put them in over the weekend and much to my displeasure the cart won't do a thing. When I press the pedal the solenoid will click but there is no movement. I couldn't recall if I had it in the tow / maintenance mode or the run mode when I connected all the batteries and I saw where it said to leave it in the tow mode for 30 seconds before switching it to the run mode. So I disconnected everything and tried it again this time ensuring that it was in the tow mode.....still nothing.

For about 1 minute the solenoid didn't click at all when I pressed the pedal....instead it would click when I flipped the switch between tow and run. I let it sit for about 5 minutes and then it started clicking again as it should when I pressed the pedal.

I rechecked all the cables and connections to the solenoid and the motor and everything seems to check out okay. I've been reading this forum and the testing procedures for the DCS carts....but really am not real sure where to start. I'm not very technical and honestly the trouble shooting diagrams don't mean much to me. I can test my solenoid but after that I'm at a loss. I don't know where my reed switch is located or what the heck it looks like. Anyone think they can point me in the right direction after I test the solenoid?
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Old 11-03-2011, 01:44 PM   #2
LostHusker
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Default Re: 1996 DCS--Solenoid Clicks Won't Move

My guess at first is that the low voltage condition you put your cart into has ruined the controller. The DCS carts were easily damaged by under voltage conditions. Just because your solenoid is clicking, does not mean it is good, or the controller.



OH, and Ummm Welcome !!! to the forum
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Old 11-04-2011, 07:03 AM   #3
Rob C
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Default Re: 1996 DCS--Solenoid Clicks Won't Move

I'll read through the trouble shooting guide to find out how to test the controller. Anyone else have any educated guesses?
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Old 11-04-2011, 07:24 AM   #4
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Default Re: 1996 DCS--Solenoid Clicks Won't Move

Your best bet is to go through the troubleshooting guide with a volt meter. Post your results here so we can help.
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Old 11-04-2011, 08:44 AM   #5
scottyb
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Default Re: 1996 DCS--Solenoid Clicks Won't Move

Very likely your controller is dead... one time runing with low voltage or re-connected while in run can be enough to damage it.
Several times running the batteries low will guaranty the controller overheats and dies.
Follow the DCS diagnostics and confirm.

I suggest an aftermarket control for better torque, speed, and durability over a rebuilt unit.
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Old 11-04-2011, 09:07 AM   #6
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Default Re: 1996 DCS--Solenoid Clicks Won't Move

what they said. welcome. your reed switch is working if your solenoid clicks.
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Old 11-07-2011, 07:04 PM   #7
Rob C
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Default Re: 1996 DCS--Solenoid Clicks Won't Move

Okay....so I printed off the trouble shooting guide and went through the tests with my volt meter. Here's what I found.

Voltage across all batteries is 37.9 (It has brand new T-105s)

Ten Pin Connector Troubleshooting
Test #1-At controller B+ check for ref. battery voltage==>37.9
Test #2-At Pin 10 Ref battery voltage-If not check wiring and Run / Tow Maint switch==>37.7
Test #3-At Pin 9 Ref battery voltage-If not check wiring and Run / Tow Maint switch and interlock switch==>37.7
Test #4-At Pin 5 Depress accelerator pedal-Ref battery voltage-If not check wiring and pedal switch==>36.2
If solenoid clicks go to pins 1 and 2 (My solenoid clicked)
Test #5-Skip
Test #6-Pin 2 14-15 VDC-If not, replace controller==>14.1
Test #7-Pin 1 .4 -1.5 VDC-If not, replace ITS==>.4

So after completing these tests it appears that everything was where it should be. I assume that dropping from 37.9 down to 37.7 and 36.2 is not that big of a deal?

Solenoid Testing
I tested the battery side of the solenoid and my reading was ==>37.7
I tested the controller side of the solenoid and my reading was ==>37.7 The trouble shooting guide says "The reading should be 0.1 --3.0 volts less than reference batttery voltage. If the reading is more than 3 volts less than reference battery voltage, the resistor/diode unit is faulty and needs replaced. [B]If the voltage is the same as reference battery voltage replace the solenoid.[B]

I went on to Page E-7 Inductive Throttle Sensor Circuit
#1-Place the pos probe on the red wire terminal of the ten pin connector. The reading should be battery voltage==>37.7
#2-Place the pos probe on the black wire terminal of the ten pin connector. The reading should be slightly above 14 but less than 16.==>14.1
#3-Separate the six pin connector between the pedal box and the controller. If the voltage goes to 14-16 the ITS is faulty and must be replaced. If the voltage remains below 16 or above 16 the controller is faulty and must be replaced.???? I assume since my voltage was 14.1 in test #2 that test #3 is not necessary? This is not really clear in the guide so I'm looking for some guidance on that.

Based on the trouble shooting guide I'm assuming that I just need to replace the solenoid. Since the ten pin trouble shooting was all "normal" does this mean that my controller is good? Or could it be that I have a bad solenoid and controller?

Any other tests that I should run? This is not as bad as I thought it would be.....but I don't want to get too excited just yet thinking that it is only the solenoid.

Thanks for any help you can provide.

Rob
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Old 11-07-2011, 07:40 PM   #8
stretchman
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Default Re: 1996 DCS--Solenoid Clicks Won't Move

i have a good tested dcs controller if you find yours is bad. Ill throw in the resister/diode shiped for $90.00
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Old 11-08-2011, 10:52 AM   #9
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Default Re: 1996 DCS--Solenoid Clicks Won't Move

I don't want to step on anyone's toes here, but if he doesn't want the controller I need it! Thanks...
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Old 11-08-2011, 11:13 AM   #10
stretchman
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Default Re: 1996 DCS--Solenoid Clicks Won't Move

still have the controller if interested
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