Oversized Club cart solenoid

[cueball94]

I have a 2002 club car DS (48v 6x8 Trojans) that runs fine with the stock Curtis 225A controller and Solenoid. I've gone through 2 Solenoids in the past 14 years and have a Curtis SW180 (200A I believe) on order to replace the stock one. The new one will arrive with the precharge resistor and diode already attached by the dealer. My question:
Will I run into problems putting in a high amp solenoid in a circuit with a low amp controller?

[kgsc]

It will be fine. Just make sure you put the positive wire on the terminal with the stripe on the diode and the main wire from the battery pack goes to the large lug with the +.

[cueball94]

Originally Posted by kgsc

It will be fine. Just make sure you put the positive wire on the terminal with the stripe on the diode and the main wire from the battery pack goes to the large lug with the +.

Yesterday, I upgraded my stock 48V solenoid to the Curtis 200A (sw180).
I tested it this morning, and it's not working right. My symptoms:
In fwd, I have to wait about 4–5 seconds for the precharge to kick in before moving forward. If I stop and then move fwd, I don't have to wait for the precharge, but the cart will slow and then pick up intermittently.
If I put it in rev., I have to wait for the precharge all over again. Anytime I switch between fwd or rev, I have to wait for the precharge. Did I smoke the caps in my controller?

[kgsc]

Unlikely. Is the resistor connected correctly?

[cueball94]

Originally Posted by kgsc

Unlikely. Is the resistor connected correctly?

Yes. I just checked all my connections and wiring. The crimps on the diode were questionable, so I soldered them. I also metered them, and they check out good as far as I can tell. After that, my symptoms were flakey. My symptom now is, I sometimes have to wait for the reverse precharge to ramp up.
If I go back to fwd, it's good. I still have the old resistor and diode from the stock solenoid; thinking about swapping them out because I haven't upgraded my controller, yet.

[kgsc]

Make sure the solenoid is not activated and check for voltage on the two heavy lugs. Battery side should be the same as if you checked at pack positive. The controller side should be close to pack voltage but a few volts lower.

[cueball94]

Originally Posted by kgsc

Make sure the solenoid is not activated and check for voltage on the two heavy lugs. Battery side should be the same as if you checked at pack positive. The controller side should be close to pack voltage but a few volts lower.

The solenoid activates every time on throttle. On the pack side, I have pack voltage, and the ctrl side has 3/4v less. About 6mo. ago, I did an OBC bypass
only doing the charging port to pack negative. I didn't do the lockout portion of it. Wondering if that has anything to do with it. I wouldn't think so, because the stock solenoid works ok.

[cueball94]

Originally Posted by cueball94

The solenoid activates every time on throttle. On the pack side, I have pack voltage, and the ctrl side has 3/4v less. About 6mo. ago, I did an OBC bypass
only doing the charging port to pack negative. I didn't do the lockout portion of it. Wondering if that has anything to do with it. I wouldn't think so, because the stock solenoid works ok.

Update:
I plugged in my charger, charging at 58.5V and everything looks good.
Switching back and forth between fwr and rev. has instantaneous response.
I'm beginning to think this solenoid is not designed to work for the Curtis 225A controller. Thoughts?

[kgsc]

Finish the OBC bypass because that could be very well what is causing your issue.. Plugged in it is sensing current flowing and keeping the circuit active.

[cueball94]

Originally Posted by kgsc

Finish the OBC bypass because that could be very well what is causing your issue.. Plugged in it is sensing current flowing and keeping the circuit active.

Update:

You can't run a 200A Curtis solenoid in a club cart DS with the stock Curtis 225 amp controller. It can't handle the meager reverse voltage. Probable has something to do with resistor in the reverse circuit.
Bottom line: I installed the original, and all is good now.