Problem with resistor, diode, or both?

[mpcolwell]

I decided to post a new thread with my ongoing battle to bring my 95 48v club car back to life. Solenoid would not click so I used the service manual to diagnose the problem. Made it to the continuity tests for the resistor and diode on top of the solenoid. Resistor is supposed to show "approximatley" 250ohms per the manual. Mine shows 238. Diode is supposed to show continuity in one direction and not the other. Mine does not make my volt meter beep in either direction. Yes, its set to continuity... I get an ohms reading around 500 but no beep. I can jump the solenoid and press the pedal and she runs like a scalded dog. I just ordered a new resistor and diode.
Am I on the right track. Could those two parts keep my new solenoid from clicking?
Thanks
MPC

[DBlom]

You are on the wrong track; Neither the resistor (pre-charge resistor, designed to charge the capacitance in the controller when solenoid is disengaged) nor the diode (inductive supressor) is needed to make the solenoid work (although the diode is intended to keep the solenoid coil form overheating and failing) check continuity of the solenoid coil - if it is open circuit, it is bad. Check for voltage applied across solenoid coil - if foot pedal is depressed and key is on, solenoid should have battery pack voltage across it. If not, trace back the wiring. Resistor at 238 ohms is OK, not the problem. Solenoids are very simple - with voltage applied across coils (small terminals), should hear it click and get continuity across main contacts (big terminals).

[mpcolwell]

I have pack voltage on both big terminals without pressing the pedal.... My old solenoid did the same thing so I put on a new one on saturday.. No change...

[DBlom]

The pre-charge resistor is responsible for the batt pack reading at both big terms - The controller has a capacitive bank within it; the resistor allows a small current to flow when the solenoid is not engaged to pre-charge that capacitance. I would recommend putting your volt meter (volts mode) across the small terminals and have someone press the pedal - with just a bit of throttle, a micro-switch within the throttle body should feed pack voltage to the coil and turn it on - if you are not getting pack voltage at the coil when you should, trace the wiring back to the source. The fact that it runs right when you bypass the solenoid means only one of two things - a) solenoid is bad or b) solenoid is not getting coil energizing voltage

[DBlom]

It is correct to read pack voltage at both sides of main contactor when no throttle is applied

[mpcolwell]

Here's what I've done so far
1) battery pack around 54volts
2) key switch continuity checks out
3) potentiometer microswitch continuity checks out
4) contenuity at f&r switch checks out ( 3 new switches just replaced)
5) Brand new Solenoid can be jumped across the two large terminals. Motors comes on when I press the pedal. Forward and reverse work.
6) Got stuck on the diode and resistor tests
7) continuity check between controller and motor checks out
**
If its not the diode or resistor I need some advise. Solenoid just wont click..

[mpcolwell]

Thanks for responding DBlom... You were responding when I was entering my last note.. I must have been misinformed when I was told in the past that I should not have pack at both terminals with no click of the solenoid.

[mpcolwell]

I'll check the small post voltage when I get home and post the results. The little green microswitch in the potentiometer showed continuity when pressing the pedal during my testing... I'l give it another shot..

thanks

mpc

[DBlom]

I say again, diode and resistor are NOT required to make solenoid click. Try a simple test - directly jump from the battery pack (+/-) to the solenoid coil (small terms) - if wired directly with nothing else in the circuit (disconnect other wires from solenoid) polarity doesn't matter - if solenoid clicks under those conditions, it is OK and problem is in wiring leading to solenoid; otherwise, solenoid is bad. The testing you described does not implicate the resistor or diode.

[DBlom]

Continuitly testing of switches is a good safe test condition, but testing under power provides more informative results - it is unusual for a solenoid to be bad right out of the box, and in any case, it sounds like your original solenoid had the same test results - check for pack voltage across small terms when pedal depressed...