1993 Marathon Key Switch Wires Melting

[kittcart]

Hello All,

I am new to the forum and searched for the answers to these questions prior to posting; thanks for your help in advance.

I just installed an Alltrax AXE 4855, new motor, solenoid, F&R switch, pot box and increased all wires to 4 ga. in my 1993 EZGO Marathon. I got the kit from BuggiesUnlimted, and I followed the diagram available on their tech support page precisely. The BU diagram appears to match the standard Marathon wiring diagram. I got the solid green indicator on the controller, which Alltrax indicates is the “go” signal. I pulled out of the garage, and smelled smoke after about 20 feet. My inspection of the situation revealed that both wires leading to/from the key switch had melted, and the red wire connecting the micro switch on the F&R switch and the one at the pot box looked like it was about to go as well. Any ideas on what is causing too much power through these wires?

[camaroluvz28]

sounds like you may have had a frayed wire going to/from keyswitch and it prob touched the frame of the cart....

[kittcart]

No frayed wires. I replaced the wires running to/from the key switch because the originals had bad connectors. Could the key switch itself be grounded to the frame somehow?

If not, it's got to be something else.

[camaroluvz28]

How about accessories...your not using the frame as ground for lights or anything else are you?...On an electric cart you always ground to the batteries, not the frame.

[kittcart]

No accessories are currently wired. I'm doing a ground up rebuild, and I wanted to get the cart moving before adding anything else.

[camaroluvz28]

hmm...the only time Ive had a cart do this to me was because a wire had grounded out on the frame...I would think it has to be in the wiring somewhere, sorry Im fresh outta ideas execpt double check all the wiring on the cart :(

[kittcart]

I figured out what the problem was:

The stock Marathon potentiometer has two sets of black and white wires connected to it. Normally, the short set of wires connects to the controller, and the other set of wires extends up to the double micro switch on the F&R switch. I had these two sets of wires connected according to the EZGO wiring diagram. When I plugged the Ohm meter into the F&R set of wires, it started at 5k and increased to 10k (the controller is set up for 0-5k). So when I pressed the accelerator, it was effectively sending double the signal to the controller, and the circuit burned up.

To solve this problem, I just unplugged the black and white wires connected to the F&R micro switch. I’m not sure what the difference is between the Alltrax controller configuration and the original Curtis 1204, but hopefully this experience will assist others when upgrading their Marathon carts.

[camaroluvz28]

Awesome...glad you got it figured out bud...and thanks for the update I hate when threads go dead with no results...

[scottyb]

I'm assuming you are saying you swapped the pot leads? put the long one to pin 2 & 3 and the short one to the MS at the F&R> The potentiometer only sends ohms, how did you melt wires with ohms? The controller should not have worked with a signal 5k-10k?

I'm still confused on this.

[spriddle]

Originally Posted by scottyb

I'm assuming you are saying you swapped the pot leads? put the long one to pin 2 & 3 and the short one to the MS at the F&R> The potentiometer only sends ohms, how did you melt wires with ohms? The controller should not have worked with a signal 5k-10k?

I'm still confused on this.

Just say no Scotty. Admitting you have a problem is the first step...