Icon Dashboard Wiring

[ATrain]

Originally Posted by Granite

You're right as long as its 12V DC, even if the amps are higher it should be fine (I am also not an electrician but did more research). It still matters though about what the 12v power is putting out for amps. E.g. if its 12v/2.4A and the lights I want to hook up need 5A, it wont work. I don’t suppose that the 12v power is labeled in any way?

Oh the DC/DC that's in it is pretty heavy duty. I haven't bothered to try looking for an amp output but I have a stereo that pulls between 15 amps (RMS) and 33 amps (peak) and a bunch of underbody/underroof lights.

Originally Posted by Granite

Did you hook underbody lights to this line (thought I saw that you did in another thread and then also had to splice into USB power line)? Is that right?

"Splicing into the USB line" sounds misleading for what I actually did...I didn't draw power or modify the function of the USB ports.

The 48v/12v reducer has a thick red (+) and thick black (-) for the 12v out. The thick black line (-) just happens to run into the back of the USB plug...just a coincidence, so I spliced into that instead of trying to ground my devices to the chassis. Apparently the 12v devices hooked up to the fuse block under the cupholders happen to be grounded somewhere else. I just traced the wire by crawling all under my cart and thought "welp, that goes right to the DC, I'll use that".

Originally Posted by Granite

I think I may just follow the underbody light mfgr’s recommendation to buy their 48v/12v voltage reducer (just $25) to ensure volts/amps are correct.

I really wouldn't bother volts will be correct and amps are more than sufficient...just a waste of money/effort IMO.

Just something to think about, I bought this DC/DC (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0756T983Q) for my crappy Western cart and it's 20amp, and the one inside our carts is physically 10-20 times LARGER.

I mean if that little crappy thing can do up to 20amps, I'd imagine something 10-20 times in size has more amp output. Plus there are not many 12v devices drawing from that DC/DC in the first place.

I can only think of the lights, display/dash, horn, backup horn, and USB ports (ironically have a further reducer themselves). None of that draws very much.

[Granite]

Thanks ATrain, very helpful

[ic0n1c]

I know this thread is super old, but I came across it when looking for some help troubleshooting a backup camera installation on my i40L and the wiring discussion here is relevant to my issue I believe. Any help is very much appreciated.
What I've done:
* Disconnected the backup horn under the seat
* Connected (red) power from backup camera to orange-ish wire in the connector that was powering the backup horn (assuming reverse-switched power)
* Connected black ground from backup camera to black wire on the connector that was powering the horn.
* Cut the 12v cigarette lighter off of the power supply for the wireless video monitor (per manufacturer's support article) to hard-wire the wireless video monitor.
* Wired the wireless video monitor power supply using splice connectors; the monitor's power (red) to the red wire under the dash going to ignition and the camera black wire to the red/black wire going to ignition under the dash (see attached image).

When turning power back on to the cart, turning on ignition, and putting it in reverse, nothing happens. Unfortunately, this model camera's manual says that the monitor will not turn on unless the camera is powered. So I am not sure which component is failing to work. I am going to purchase a multimeter tomorrow and try to educate myself on using that to troubleshoot, but if anyone sees anything that immediately jumps out as a "whoops, you shouldn't have done it that way", please let me know. Thanks in advance!

Image: https://ibb.co/yp0Qv9P