Club Car DS Lithium Conversion

[Furyous]

Originally Posted by S4TA

May be a dumb question, but what is the part holding the Anderson connector off of the box made of?


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It’s just sheet aluminum. The Anderson connector is bolted to a three piece aluminum case.


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[Furyous]

Got some work done a few nights ago but never posted pics.

Started to install the amp- this little circuit board is $35 on parts express right now. Has Bluetooth connectivity, bass/treble/volume controls, and an adjustable crossover with 25x2 watts and 1x100 watts for the sub. You just have to house it in something. I had a car charger that died on me a few years back and knew I would use the aluminum case for something in the future.
After mounting it though i realized it takes up too much space so I am going to trim it down and make a plexi cover so that the blue lights when connected to Bluetooth is visible. Plus it looks cool. We tested it with the Phillips tv speakers ($2.80/pair on parts express right now!!!) and my fosgate 10” sub. It really sounded good. Not ear splitting loud, but louder than we would ever listen to it.

Also painted the inside of the body back to black.

Still have some systems that don’t want to work. The charger still wouldn’t kick on so we hooked my charger up to it and it worked perfectly. Charged it up to 58v. BMS not coming on and acts fickle when it does. Has to be a loose connection but it decided it didn’t want to come on at all. On top of that, we still have the throttle issue. The MCOR is still not putting out 100% throttle. Anyone know why that would be? It’s not a linkage issue, we removed it and turned it to the physical stop.


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[S4TA]

Originally Posted by Furyous

It’s just sheet aluminum. The Anderson connector is bolted to a three piece aluminum case.


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In a few of the pictures, I see a block between the connector and the case.


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[PingEye3]

Originally Posted by S4TA

In a few of the pictures, I see a block between the connector and the case.


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That block is 3/4" thick and just spaces the Anderson connector off the pack to save knuckle busting when D&R connector.

[Furyous]

So the charger housing is cool but takes up more space than necessary. I hacked off 1 1/2” from each side, then sanded the black anodizing off of each of the fins and the top. Then I made an HDPE cover for the front and a smoked plexiglass cover for the top so that you can see the Bluetooth led status.



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[DaveTM]

Nice work!!

[Furyous]

Still working sporadically on this, but the light is at the end of the tunnel and it feels like we are closing in on getting it back on the road now that things continually go back on instead of off.

The MCOR still presents an issue, although we now have it figured out. You have to connect the main pack negative to the purple wire on the MCOR in order for the wiper to generate the right resistance as a signal. Problem is, there is a mechanical limitation on the pedal so that we only get 80% throttle. Will have to figure out how to get full throttle out of it. Also, the micro switch doesn’t kick in until the pedal is 1/4 of the way down, resulting in the cart launching quite a bit. Might have to use the stock switch on the other side of the pedal to see what it does. Charger is working, BMS is working, all systems are go except for the 12v accessory side. Just have to tap into the factory 12v wiring harness and we should magically have lights, blinkers, and a horn again.

My main happiness with a build is when we get to the stereo part. As you know, I was housing this bluetooth 2.1 amplifier in an aluminum housing. I got it done, mounted, and wired up. I then got an 8” Polk marine subwoofer scratch and dent for $40 on eBay, and made a sub box for it out of a clear acrylic drink tub! It actually sounds phenomenal. I mounted it to the aluminum panel and spaced it with rubber suspension bushings that came off another cart. It fits perfectly under the body of the cart and the motor barely clears it with full suspension flex.

It’s really hard to believe the quality and volume of sound I am getting with this completely stealth setup- yeah, it requires more fabrication and modification but in the end my buddy gets a killer system for about $80.


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[Furyous]

Man what a night. Started with putting the 12v stuff into the fuse box. Horn, lights, everything works. Solidly mounted the Harley ignition switch. Done. Tidied up the accessory wires. Done. Remounted the body and took her for a ride. 18 mph on a stock motor with roller skate wheels and 80% throttle max. Should be easily 24 but with 23” tires should be 28.
Now, the cover on the body that goes over the subwoofer taken off would look amazing if I polished the acrylic, got the right sized lag screws so the threads aren’t showing, painted the wood black, and lit it up in LEDs would be amazing, but the back seat would prevent you from seeing any of it. Still, I would know it was there.
Under the front seat would be the bar with Club Car cooler.

That will hold the ice. My friend is a big vodka fan (he’s allergic to beer) so I’m making a smoked plexi bar to hold his two favorite vodkas and shot glasses with a shaker.
More to come. We are doing a release party next weekend and not letting him work on it at all next week. A few surprises.


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