Planning out the dash...

[GradyTX]

Hey all,

So, I am planning out what the dash would look like and I am a big proponent of switches for stuff heh... it is like my boat, I like to isolate schtuph...in fact, I plan to use the same place I use for my boat for the switches. Anyway, to that extent, I am trying to picture what all may need a switch and where etc.

So, the picture below is the new dash I have incoming from ebay. Now, while I wished it had a flat dash and no holes at all, it already has a spot, I assume, for the key and maybe a battery meter. Not a huge deal, that can work....I will just match the fascia to whatever I get.

I figure, the stereo needs a direct wire as a switch would probably lose the channel stations.

1 - switch for the under carriage lights
1 switch for the possible fog lights?
1 switch for maybe an accessory outlet

I was going to add some lights on the roof, they would not need to be on all the time, but it is sometimes nice out in the country to see what is to the side...that can go on a switch.

What else might I be missing? Not sure there is anything electrical I would really need heh... but you all are the experts ;)

R

[SouthCo]

When I had an electric cart, in addition to what you have listed, I had a switch for the 48v to 12v converter.


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[2K6TBSS]

Originally Posted by GradyTX

Hey all,

So, I am planning out what the dash would look like and I am a big proponent of switches for stuff heh... it is like my boat, I like to isolate schtuph...in fact, I plan to use the same place I use for my boat for the switches. Anyway, to that extent, I am trying to picture what all may need a switch and where etc.

So, the picture below is the new dash I have incoming from ebay. Now, while I wished it had a flat dash and no holes at all, it already has a spot, I assume, for the key and maybe a battery meter. Not a huge deal, that can work....I will just match the fascia to whatever I get.

I figure, the stereo needs a direct wire as a switch would probably lose the channel stations.

1 - switch for the under carriage lights
1 switch for the possible fog lights?
1 switch for maybe an accessory outlet

I was going to add some lights on the roof, they would not need to be on all the time, but it is sometimes nice out in the country to see what is to the side...that can go on a switch.

What else might I be missing? Not sure there is anything electrical I would really need heh... but you all are the experts ;)

R

Depending on what type of key switch you have you might be able to use the key positions as a switch too.

The key switch I have is the Off/On/On style that came with factory headlights (I believe). I wired the switch to have a "accessory" position similar to a car. So when you go to the first "ON" position, it turns on my voltage reducer which runs all my 12v stuff (amp, speakers, underbody lights, headlights). The second "ON" position puts power to the rest of the cart so I can drive it around.

As for other switches, Not sure you will need any additional ones.

One thing that would be good is having a fuse block coming off your voltage reducer (if you are going to have one) so you can wire all your accessories to fused power.

This is the one I have it has power and ground in the same block:
https://smile.amazon.com/Circuit-Neg...s%2C216&sr=8-4

[GradyTX]

All great input. I have been talking to Scotty a while and have one of his voltage reducers planned, however if I have enough room, I was planning to add a separate 12v deep cycle battery specifically for accessories, and then a fuse panel, like I have for "house batteries" on my boat. That way I can add a single charger for that battery to be plugged in when I plug the 48v charger in. I was also planning to add a small solar trickle charger just for that battery, with all the over-charge protection aspects too heh.

I hate dead batteries :P

So, this would let me get a 3-4 switch panel made (1 extra switch just in case heh)... and I like the idea of an off/on/on switch. I just got one of the oem off/on switches, but do not mind swapping that out heh....good idea.

Thanks guys!

R

[kernal]

I have that dash. I used regular marine contura lighted switches. One for lights, one for sound system (polyplanar marine amp) and a space for expansion. Also a plug in 12v source. 12v power comes from a powerchair type AGM battery that is separately charged.
I did this years ago. Now days there are much more imaginative marine or marine like switches.
Regarding the sound system. I put the speakers under the cup holder. Even with the small amp it sounds good but this is not the way to go if you want to have thumping base or provide music for a block party. It is simple to use, however with the phone being the music source. These days even sirius xm is an app. On my other cart I didn't bother with a sound system at all. Just use a Bose mini bluetooth speaker or equivalent.
The 12v power source is nice to have. We have used it for a 12v heated blanket and 12v Christmas lights.
If you look closely, I bought the extensions for that dash that go all the way to the floor. Gives it a finished look IMO. Not expensive.
My solution is relatively simple compared to some on this forum.

[TRPetr]

Kernal

Looking at the pics of your dash. I have a question on how the battery charge meter you have is wired. I bought a cart for fixup about a month ago, and while stripping it down I noted that the charge meter next to the key switch was not wired. Having looked through several posts with wiring plans, I cannot seem to locate the wiring for this meter.

How is yours wired? I assume straight off the battery, but you know what they say about assumptions.

Here are a couple of pics of what I have currently.

[Sir Nuke]

Grady.....not sure how many switches you will end up with. but what I did on my last build where I knew I needed/wanted a bunch of switched was to get a custom switch plate made with all the switches and even had them labeled as well. and believe it or not it wasn't expensive, mine was a custom 5 switch panel and was only $70. I got it from WiringProducts.com here is a direct link to the switch panel page.

[GradyTX]

Originally Posted by Sir Nuke

Grady.....not sure how many switches you will end up with. but what I did on my last build where I knew I needed/wanted a bunch of switched was to get a custom switch plate made with all the switches and even had them labeled as well. and believe it or not it wasn't expensive, mine was a custom 5 switch panel and was only $70. I got it from WiringProducts.com here is a direct link to the switch panel page.

Well, here is what I was THINKING of.. but man.. 170 bucks seems a lot lol...I actually like yours.. simple and a lot less expensive lol.. that being said, these are pretty cool...hehe

BUT... for 170 bucks, it is wired, heat shrunk, 6ft of wires to run all the way to the panel.. etc.. I mean.. it would be like minutes to install and very clean heh... so.. eh...

Okay.. took what you had and got carried away.. lol.. typical :P

picture 2 is the new one :P

It is 3" tall x 8" wide. The tiki guy is for the "bling bling" undercarriage lights lol.
I thought the beer low sign might make a great accessory button too.. heh

I mean.. means an extra 100 bucks all in all, but might be a lot easier. The main headlights are a pull knob that came with the kit. The dash arrives today so I can measure to see if it would fit. All I would have to do is cut a hole and screw this over the top, probably seal it too....but snazzy and lights up :P

[kernal]

Originally Posted by TRPetr

Kernal

Looking at the pics of your dash. I have a question on how the battery charge meter you have is wired. I bought a cart for fixup about a month ago, and while stripping it down I noted that the charge meter next to the key switch was not wired. Having looked through several posts with wiring plans, I cannot seem to locate the wiring for this meter.

How is yours wired? I assume straight off the battery, but you know what they say about assumptions.

Here are a couple of pics of what I have currently.

TR,
I can offer this: My cart came with factory lights and a factory installed battery meter which is a Curtis model 906. So my key switch has 3 positions: off, on and on with lights. Thus there are 4 pins on my key switch. 2 are pack voltage and 2 are 12v. Your battery meter is unknown to me and doesn't look like mine but it may be similar in its connections as it has 4 pins as does the model 906. The 906 is connected as follows: pin 1 goes to battery pack +, pin 2 goes to battery pack -, pin 3 is not used, pin 4 goes to battery + thru the switched terminal of the key switch. (the ezgo key switch is on the + side of the circuit)
From this you can see that the meter is "always on" as it is connected directly to the battery pack + and - though the negative is connected to the carts negative branch of the harness along with the lights etc. What happens when you turn the key on is the meter "lights up". So the meter is always on but it only lights up when the key is on and a direction is selected. This is on purpose so the operator knows when the cart is "armed" and will go when the go pedal is pressed.

[GradyTX]

Wow, Nuke... those toggle switches are WAY less expensive... may need to just make a plate and buy those... they look cool and are a lot less on the pocket heh.

R