Winter updates

[Bubsbuggie]

This Winter I am wanting to do at least 2 things to by cart, Ok 3 things and need some help.

1 install new battery.
2. Install a carb and air filter.
3 shocks - mostly rear.


1. Battery. Ever since I built the cart 2 years ago, I have always had issues with battery drain. Going down to AutoZone to get a new Battey today because the current one has gone bad because of neglect and constantly being drained down. Tired on having a unreliable starting cart!!!!!!!!!!!! Then, I am going to perform some test to see if in fact i have residual drain. How do I distinguish between residual drain and my charging system not charging the battery during operation? 23 HP BS Vtwin.

2. I want to put a real carb on this thing can someone tell me my best option and where to purchase kit? I have a 23 HP BS V-twin with cheta cam, High compression springs. (maybe 40 mm Webber ???)

3. Need to do something about suspension springs. The rears are the aftermarket red springs for added weight. I have a rear seat/bed combo. These springs back here are horrible -feels like a brick wagon going over bumps. The fronts have aftermarket jakes Aframe kit. Probably just need to learn to dial those in. Definitely need help and advice on the rears.

Can anyone help me on my winter quest??

[tom4416]

If you have converted to a V-Twin B&S, you know way more about carts than me. However, I did install a very simple voltage meter, tied to the key switch, on my stock cart so I always get a readout of what the generator is doing (12.7 at rest, 14.9-15.1 charging rate with all accessories off and full throttle). The other battery related thing is that everything should be off with the key with the possible exception of the backup buzzer (which you have probably disconnected anyway) and in stock form, the low oil light (and that may only be on newer carts as I don't remember this on my G22).

Set your DVM to amps, put your lead into the amp receptacle and then put it in line with the positive side of the battery and measure parasitic draw. Properly wired and keyed, it should be near zero. If it's not, start disconnecting what little wiring there is until it drops to zero and you will at least have found the source of the draw.

I have no idea what carb would fit that manifold or if there are custom kits from Weber or Mikuni that come with a manifold and the necessary linkage. Again, you are light years ahead of me if you can build a beast like that.

I do know the charging circuit on these conversion motors is not that robust as they are normally charging a much smaller lawn mower or generator battery. If you have a lot of accessories like a radio, horn, lights, fans (cars in Arizona even have swamp coolers on them!), then it's possible it can't keep up with the draw even when charging properly.

[Bubsbuggie]

Originally Posted by tom4416

If you have converted to a V-Twin B&S, you know way more about carts than me. However, I did install a very simple voltage meter, tied to the key switch, on my stock cart so I always get a readout of what the generator is doing (12.7 at rest, 14.9-15.1 charging rate with all accessories off and full throttle). The other battery related thing is that everything should be off with the key with the possible exception of the backup buzzer (which you have probably disconnected anyway) and in stock form, the low oil light (and that may only be on newer carts as I don't remember this on my G22).

Set your DVM to amps, put your lead into the amp receptacle and then put it in line with the positive side of the battery and measure parasitic draw. Properly wired and keyed, it should be near zero. If it's not, start disconnecting what little wiring there is until it drops to zero and you will at least have found the source of the draw.

I have no idea what carb would fit that manifold or if there are custom kits from Weber or Mikuni that come with a manifold and the necessary linkage. Again, you are light years ahead of me if you can build a beast like that.

I do know the charging circuit on these conversion motors is not that robust as they are normally charging a much smaller lawn mower or generator battery. If you have a lot of accessories like a radio, horn, lights, fans (cars in Arizona even have swamp coolers on them!), then it's possible it can't keep up with the draw even when charging properly.

Thanks, Found the draw which is what i suspected all along. I was getting 0.37 amp draw when everything was off. Turned out to be the Madjax Deluxe Light, turn signal, horn kit. Instruction say to connect the red wire directly to the battery. I am now going to connect it to the key switch - that should solve this issue. One thing to note aways perform this parasitic test through the negative cable and not the positive cable to protect your multimeter something i found out today.

[tom4416]

Originally Posted by Bubsbuggie

Thanks, Found the draw which is what i suspected all along. I was getting 0.37 amp draw when everything was off. Turned out to be the Madjax Deluxe Light, turn signal, horn kit. Instruction say to connect the red wire directly to the battery. I am now going to connect it to the key switch - that should solve this issue. One thing to note aways perform this parasitic test through the negative cable and not the positive cable to protect your multimeter something i found out today.

I would not connect the Madjax to the key switch - that is a small gauge wire and will not carry the load (I have the same setup). Buy a 40amp relay, trigger that with the key switch, power from the battery, power out to the Madjax box with the heavy wire on the relay. Those relays are so cheap and will protect your factory wiring plus, with a 40 amp capacity, you could power other "stuff" if you so desired. I used every output on my Madjax including fog lights, accessory lighting, turn signal indicator lights - everything wire I could fill. You'd be surprised the draw the Madjax puts on the wiring if you have it on high beams, use fog lights, hit the brake lights and the horn all at the same time.

[Bubsbuggie]

Not sure that I follow do you have a diagram. You would think that the instructions would be correct. But by connecting directly to the battery you can use the items without the cart being on. Then there is the whole brake thing. I always park my cart with brake/ebrake fully pressed in. So, this light kit allows the bake light to come on but then goes off after like 20 seconds but still continues to draw 0.37 amp and thats the problem. I would think that I could upgrade wire diameter and connect directly to the key switch. Are you saying to just put a 40 amp fuse holder in this wire.

[kgsc]

I would start disconnecting individual items in that kit to find the draw. There shouldn’t be one. The suggestion was to use a 40amp relay to switch power to the kit that is triggered by the key switch.

As for the springs you should just be able to go back to stock springs.

For the carb I would post your question in the big block section as there are a bunch of experts there.

[Bubsbuggie]

Originally Posted by kgsc

I would start disconnecting individual items in that kit to find the draw. There shouldn’t be one. The suggestion was to use a 40amp relay to switch power to the kit that is triggered by the key switch.

As for the springs you should just be able to go back to stock springs.

For the carb I would post your question in the big block section as there are a bunch of experts there.

Makes Sense, thank you. For the springs I have a rear seat that flips into a bed-need some sturdy but with give. Thinking stock spring will be to soft.

[kgsc]

I have stock springs on my 29 and have no issues.

[slonomo]

Carb kit for that engine can be found at Backwater Performance. I bought their complete kit and it was fantastic, they also have tech support if you run into tuning issues etc. I think I bought the kit without the throttle kit since it's for a golf cart. Superior throttle response, very snappy off idle, and tons of power.

[Bubsbuggie]

Originally Posted by slonomo

Carb kit for that engine can be found at Backwater Performance. I bought their complete kit and it was fantastic, they also have tech support if you run into tuning issues etc. I think I bought the kit without the throttle kit since it's for a golf cart. Superior throttle response, very snappy off idle, and tons of power.

Slonomo,

I have read your post concerning Carbs- ie Mukuni -(Sp). My take away from it though is this and I could be wrong, so I guess I am looking for clarification. "Its not worth it" for my reasons! I have a 23HP v-twin, Cheta Cam, Rev kit, header exhaust. I want the carb because I want more power, acceleration and speed. Currently I have the stock carb which I suppose is a 2 barrel. Isnt the 2 barrel bigger than a single barrel Mukini? So, I guess the real question is what kind of gains will I see and feel making the change?