Yet another no spark. Please help me fix this thing!

[redfishbluegrass]

The information here has been great. I’ve read many threads trying to solve this before asking. So I have a 1998 TXT with a 295 Robbins. Cart was sitting for years. Cleaned carb and the rest of the fuel system. All was running well. Then the crankshaft and one of the rods broke. Off to CT rebuilds it went. Got it back and reinstalled, ran great...for a week. Sometimes it would run in the am and then just decide not to occasionally. Got worse and worse. To date this is what I have done.
New battery
New ground harness
Pulled solenoid and ground all surfaces to bare metal
Tried 3 igniters
Tried 2 ignition coils
Tired 2 pulsar coils properly air gapped.
It’s hooked up to an in-line spark tester and when it shows spark there it will run. What I’ve got, regardless of what I reground or change a part is faint spark when I push the pedal and when I let off. I do have an aftermarket igniter but all three do the same thing. I’ve got 12v while cranking on the red to coil. I’ve added extra grounds to the block and frame.
The strange thing is when I ohm from ground to the red to the coil I get continuity. I also have continuity from the battery ground to the small terminal on the solenoid. I still get proper voltage when the pedal is pressed but that seemed odd to me. Anyhow, please help me fix this thing! I am out of ideas. Thanks in advance.

[redfishbluegrass]

Could I have 3 bad igniters?

[tprosuper]

If you are using aftermarket ignitors then yes they could all 3 be junk. I had the same problem and 2 aftermarket ignitors did not fix it but 1 used oem ignitor did the trick. The worst thing about the whole situation is there is no known check you can do on the ignitor. (At least none that I have found.)

[trig123]

Please read post number 2 here. You should see the same if yours is wired correct.
https://www.buggiesgonewild.com/showthread.php?t=166477

The ignitors cannot be checked with anything other than a known good one. I have always kept one just for that reason.
I have checked a few for people on a cart I have at my shop. The classic symptom of a bad ignitor for me has always been they will fire one time when spinning the engine over.
Also be sure to check the AC output of your pulser coil. You set the DVOM on AC scale and connect it to the two wires coming from pulser. You should see around 1/2 volt when you spin it over.
More times than once have I found a bad connection where you plug the pulser in at the plastic two pin connector.

[redfishbluegrass]

Thank you. Will get my hands on an OEM igniter and test the pulsar voltage. Standby.

[trig123]

Originally Posted by redfishbluegrass

Thank you. Will get my hands on an OEM igniter and test the pulsar voltage. Standby.

Not sure which meter you have but the cheap Harbor Freight one I got has to be set on 2 volts AC to get the correct reading.

Meters like the Fluke DVOM are auto ranging, meaning they automatically change their internal range to attempt to find the correct voltage, resistance, or current.
Just wanted you to know when testing the AC current of the pulser.

[redfishbluegrass]

Originally Posted by trig123

Not sure which meter you have but the cheap Harbor Freight one I got has to be set on 2 volts AC to get the correct reading.

Meters like the Fluke DVOM are auto ranging, meaning they automatically change their internal range to attempt to find the correct voltage, resistance, or current.
Just wanted you to know when testing the AC current of the pulser.

I’ve got a fluke. Do t know if it is sensitive enough to test it.

[trig123]

Originally Posted by redfishbluegrass

I’ve got a fluke. Do t know if it is sensitive enough to test it.

It should work. Let us know what the results are. I hope you see around 1/2 volts

[redfishbluegrass]

Okay. New igniter and no change. Now, I did get it to fire but only when I tap the orange and white wire very rapidly to 12v. I can’t hold it on there but I can tap it to get fire. It’s like it would rather be close than to touch. Meter not sensitive enough to read pulsar. But the one on there was tested on a known working cart. Anybody know how the small post on the solenoid works or even better what the orange and white wire does? Thanks again.

[trig123]

Originally Posted by redfishbluegrass

Okay. New igniter and no change. Now, I did get it to fire but only when I tap the orange and white wire very rapidly to 12v. I can’t hold it on there but I can tap it to get fire. It’s like it would rather be close than to touch. Meter not sensitive enough to read pulsar. But the one on there was tested on a known working cart. Anybody know how the small post on the solenoid works or even better what the orange and white wire does? Thanks again.

The orange and white wire supplies a 12 volt signal to ignitor when the engine is turning over, only when gas pedal is pushed.
If the solenoid was bad it wouldn't turn over.

Check real good on the ground part of bracket that this ignitor is mounted to. Ground issues have always been a problem on these.
Ground cable leaves battery and bolts to one of the two bolts that hold this bracket on.
Cable then goes to ground lug on starter/generator .

You could always run a second ground cable to the ground lug on starter/generator or anywhere on the metal frame where it bolts on.