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Old 08-18-2020, 10:25 PM   #11
slonomo
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I'm currently having camber issues... Center to center, bottom mounts are 11-3/8", top are 13-3/4". Lower arms are 12-1/2" from pivot to pivot, upper are 10-1/2". At the bottom of the travel, passenger has about -1.8°, driver has about -2.2°, which isn't a great difference but is something that I can live with. At the mid point of travel, both sides have ZERO camber. At the very top, passenger has -1.2°, driver has -2.2°... Any thoughts or pointers are greatly appreciated!Attachment 207288Attachment 207289Attachment 207290

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Well, no front suspension has a true zero camber though the whole suspension cycle. Are your upper and lower arm mount points equal? It's hard to tell.

Look at atv front ends you'll see what I mean. Usually they are longer arms on the bottom, shorter arms on the top. What you'll usually see is negative camber at full extension, and positive camber at full compression.

Not sure you really want to change it at this point. If your travel is mostly in the middle 40% range you will probably be ok.

One word of caution. When you hook up your steering, all that geometry goes out the window if you don't get the tie rod length correct, you will have horrible bump steer. I can explain how to get it right if you wish.
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Old 08-18-2020, 10:42 PM   #12
slonomo
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Your design doesn't look all that much different than mine. I used an atv front end and widened it 8", incorporated a 14" rack and pinion unit. It's a fantastic handling suspension. I've had it off road many many times without issue or failure. It's far from perfectly designed, but it's great, I love it. I'm sure with the amount of thought, design, and with your fab skills, it will be fine.

Here's a couple of photos of my setup. They compare very closely in geometry.
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File Type: jpg slo's front suspension 2.jpg (171.4 KB, 0 views)
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Old 09-13-2020, 07:08 PM   #13
BaselessEarth12
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One word of caution. When you hook up your steering, all that geometry goes out the window if you don't get the tie rod length correct, you will have horrible bump steer. I can explain how to get it right if you wish.
The current tie rods are for testing purposes only... But there are currently some HUGE toe issues!

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Old 09-13-2020, 07:30 PM   #14
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If I had been able to use ATV arms, things would have been A LOT simpler... I built everything myself, so it's pretty janky. BUT, things have been progressing pretty well, all things considered! Steering shaft that I had disappeared at some point, and the replacement was "cancelled" apparently, so that stinks...

BUT, I DID finally receive all 4 wheels and the tires! Even though it's still supported by the jack stands (which are at full height and on 2×X materials), ALL FOUR TIRES ARE TOUCHING THE GROUND. Seats are mounted, floor is in place (which was a HUGE PITA since my plasma cutter is still out of commission... LONG story...), extended shifting cables are in place, and I've started working on the cage!

I noticed a bit late into the project (just a few days ago, lol) that the subframe wasn't going to be low enough to clear the cowl with the 25" tires, so I also had to make some spacers for it. Which was pretty easy, all things considered! Just needed some 5" bolts to hold everything together. OH! I also got the plow lights roughly tacked in place! Only took a little bit of massaging to fit them...0817201738.jpg0821201325.jpg0819201715.jpg0821201325a.jpg

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Old 09-13-2020, 07:34 PM   #15
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And as a side note... Wheel bearings are hard when you don't have a socket big enough for the nut.0911200955.jpg0911201207.jpg0911201449.jpg0911201449a.jpg

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Old 09-14-2020, 08:28 AM   #16
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If anyone knows of any cars that use a steering intermediate shaft with a female 5/8×36 spline on both ends... That would be helpful. If necessary, I've found the joints and a shaft to use on Amazon for a total of $90 (including tax), but I'd rather not.

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Old 09-20-2020, 09:23 AM   #17
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I ended up getting the Amazon parts... Seat belts arrived yesterday, and the steering stuff should be here by Thursday. Still wondering what to do for the brakes, though... As for build progress, I've got the rear MOSTLY finished, and the tail lights are in place! Oval ones are high mount brake lights and reverse lights, rounds are regular brakes and indicators. I've also spliced a "2 1/2" to 2" receiver hitch reducer" into the rear crossmember.0916201839.jpg

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Old 09-20-2020, 10:45 PM   #18
slonomo
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Default Re: So it Finally Begins...

Ezgo TXT uses the steering shaft you need, that's the one I used. I actually used the entire steering column and shaft and connected it to a sand rail rack and pinion unit. Works great.

For brakes I used the disc brakes from the atv that I borrowed the suspension from. I just used the spindles, hubs, everything. You might be able to get some atv spindles cheap with the brakes on them.
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Old 09-30-2020, 07:07 AM   #19
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Ezgo TXT uses the steering shaft you need, that's the one I used. I actually used the entire steering column and shaft and connected it to a sand rail rack and pinion unit. Works great.



For brakes I used the disc brakes from the atv that I borrowed the suspension from. I just used the spindles, hubs, everything. You might be able to get some atv spindles cheap with the brakes on them.
If only it were that easy for the front... The steering shaft ended up being the better part of 2' long before it even reached the column! Got a pair of 5/8-36 to 3/4 DD steering joints and a 24" DD shaft that works pretty well. Angle of the joint at the top is a bit extreme, so it binds a little bit... Unfortunately, for SOME obtuse reason the joint didn't go very willingly onto the column and required some, uh... persuasion. Because I don't want there to be too much of a difference in the position of the wheel from where it's at now, I've got a 3/4" heim joint and a Double DD uni coming to fix it.

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Old 09-30-2020, 07:18 AM   #20
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As for the current progress... The wiring has begun! And holy shnikey's is it ROUGH!! Engine is in, too, as is the tach. Was monkeying around trying to get the starter to fully engage and stop clicking at me for ALL OF 11 hours... Only for it to be a bad ground that I was able to make and install in three minutes. The rest of the cage has been welded in, too! Now it's also got proper tail lights, and is no longer being supported by jack stands! So that's always nice. Went to try and start it for the first time yesterday morning, only to find out that the fuel pump is cooked... 6 years in the woods'll do that, though. SO, yet again, I've got to wait on parts to arrive next Thursday. A Holley Mighty Mite 12-426 fuel pump, a switch to toggle it, a bunch of little momentary switches to get the brake and reverse lights functioning, the big ol' heim joint, the universal joint, and an electronic flasher unit will all be arriving by 10/8.0916201332.jpg0916201738a.jpg0916201839.jpg0924201410a.jpg0924201410b.jpg

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