2010 Yamaha 48v golf cart reverse buzzer always on

[zeosrule]

Hello! Today a was replacing the buzzer in my golf cart with a LED. I had the original connector going into a 48v to 12v converter then to the LED. When I switched it into forward, it stayed on. I reconnected the buzzer in its original configuration and it is now stuck on. It will only shut off if disconnected or put in tow mode. Thanks!

[cgtech]

Does the cart still run normal in F and R? The reverse beeper is operated from the controller, not the F&R rocker switch, so its probably not the switch. You may have damaged the controller. If everything else still works, you may be stuck with this condition (just unplug the beeper).

[zeosrule]

Originally Posted by cgtech

Does the cart still run normal in F and R? The reverse beeper is operated from the controller, not the F&R rocker switch, so its probably not the switch. You may have damaged the controller. If everything else still works, you may be stuck with this condition (just unplug the beeper).

The cart works great. It is just the buzzer. So you think it is the controller? Any way it can be fixed? I have experience with component level repair.

[zeosrule]

Originally Posted by cgtech

Does the cart still run normal in F and R? The reverse beeper is operated from the controller, not the F&R rocker switch, so its probably not the switch. You may have damaged the controller. If everything else still works, you may be stuck with this condition (just unplug the beeper).

Also, if the switch is switching 48v, couldn't I just splice into the reverse side of the switch?

[cgtech]

Yes, you could splice into the switch, but that brings another problem. The F&R switch is 48v + , the beeper always has 48v + (when tow/run is on), the controller interrupts the 48v - to the beeper, but that could be worked around. I do not use the term "ground" , as electric carts with advanced electronics dont use a frame "ground". The controller internals are potted in rubbery stuff, so repair would be difficult.

[zeosrule]

Originally Posted by cgtech

Yes, you could splice into the switch, but that brings another problem. The F&R switch is 48v + , the beeper always has 48v + (when tow/run is on), the controller interrupts the 48v - to the beeper, but that could be worked around. I do not use the term "ground" , as electric carts with advanced electronics dont use a frame "ground". The controller internals are potted in rubbery stuff, so repair would be difficult.

So I should be able to pull 48v + off the negative side of the switch. Then for 48v - Would I be able to use the original buzzer 48v - because it is stuck on, or is that a bad idea?

[cgtech]

Originally Posted by zeosrule

So I should be able to pull 48v + off the negative side of the switch. Then for 48v - Would I be able to use the original buzzer 48v - because it is stuck on, or is that a bad idea?

The "reverse" side of the switch? Yes (the switch has no negative). I have never seen this specific failure, so i dont know how safe, or unsafe, using the original beeper 48- may be.

[zeosrule]

Originally Posted by cgtech

The "reverse" side of the switch? Yes (the switch has no negative). I have never seen this specific failure, so i dont know how safe, or unsafe, using the original beeper 48- may be.

Ok. If you were to do this, where would you pull 48v - from? I really don't want to screw things up any further.

[cgtech]

Battery pack negative. What type of 48v>12v reducer are you using? Is it only for your reverse led thing?

[zeosrule]

Originally Posted by cgtech

Battery pack negative. What type of 48v>12v reducer are you using? Is it only for your reverse led thing?

OK. I used one of those eBay 48v to 12v 3A adapters like this http://www.ebay.com/itm/161153559337...84.m1439.l2649 . It was only for the reverse LED.