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Old 04-07-2016, 06:37 AM   #991
rib33024
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Default Re: wiring diagrams

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Old 04-13-2016, 02:40 PM   #992
mrmotoguzzi00
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Club Car
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Sarasota, Florida
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Default Re: Anybody seen a Club Car Front end like this ?

Duh, probably a good idea to actually attach the pictures ?


http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...-end-like.html
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Old 04-13-2016, 08:15 PM   #993
Mike Mac
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Yamaha
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Phoenix
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Default Re: DIY Motor Tensioner

Ray, if I ever make another one, I'd do a grade 8. I broke a 1/4" (the first one I made), so after that, I made 2, (both 5/16" grade 5), thinking that should be it. If I'm making one, I might as well make 2, and have an extra!! Well about 4 yrs later, I found the threads being stripped off the bolt. So,,,I double nutted the second one hoping that does it!! We will see!!

These little suckers, being hot roded, use up parts!!
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Old 04-29-2016, 08:54 AM   #994
JohnnieB
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E-Z-GO
 
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Location: West Virginia
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Default Re: 2010 EZGO PDS tire size

Quote:
Originally Posted by surferd15 View Post
Im looking at two different 12 inch wheels and tire combos. I like the look of the 215/40/12s. Would this affect anything like steering or rubbing on the inside? Other set is 205/30/12. I ride mostly on street and some grass/dirt. I read the highest I can go is 18.5 inches with stock height? I measured and it seems like I have more room. Need a little help here. Thank you.
As long as you don't go to a tire width (sidewall to sidewall is tire width) much greater than stock (8.5"), you can go to about 20" in tire height without rubbing.

If you go taller the stock tire height (18") you will increase the cart's top speed, but lose torque. IE: Mathematically, a 20" tall tire produces about an 11% increase in speed at the expense of a 10% reduction in torque.

A 215/40/12 tire is about 18.8" tall and 8.5" wide (4.4% speed gain - 4.3% torque loss)

A 205/30/12 tire is about 16.8" tall and 8.0" wide (6.7% speed LOSS - 7.1% torque GAIN)
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Old 05-01-2016, 08:47 AM   #995
kawasaki
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Default Re: Considering a 1,000cc Goldwing into a Yamaha G2

1200 goldwing bored and stroked in a golf cart, suppose to do 11.5 1/4 mile @ 110 mph. It looks like it is a g2 frame highly modified, 5 speed high and 5 speed low, and electric reverse.
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Old 05-01-2016, 10:26 AM   #996
rib33024
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Default Re: First cart, used, I'm broke, what to do first?

Yamaha G9(?) Rear end input shaft splines. What sprocket will work?


http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/big-b...tml#post466852

sprocket

http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/produc...d=0872911&mmy=

http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/produc...eafCatId=11208


http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/golf-...cket-assy.html


http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/big-b...-sprocket.html

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/desig...ferential.html
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Old 05-06-2016, 05:10 PM   #997
rib33024
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Default Re: How do I post to sell a golf cart?

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Old 05-11-2016, 09:11 AM   #998
JohnnieB
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Default Re: Installed high speed magnet now hitting 23mph

Per a PM request - Here are the TXT 48V Parts and service manuals.
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Old 05-16-2016, 01:07 AM   #999
rib33024
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Default Re: Anyone have downloadable repair manual for ezgo txt series cart

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Old 05-29-2016, 03:44 PM   #1000
Cheesy
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Default O-I_C

After seeing numerous posts about Yamaha's not starting, I figured that I would document an easy repair to a VERY common problem. The Yamaha stop switches are known to fail often, and this simple fix can potentially save you $50-$80.

If you are having intermittent starting problems when you step on the gas pedal this is most likely your problem. Meaning, you have to push the gas pedal a few times in order to get a proper contact. The stop switch pictured should be the same of both gas and electric, and ranging from G11 to G29 (Drive) models.

** It is advised to have the key turned off and the cart in neutral during this repair **

Remove plastic floor mat rivets with a flat headed screw driver, and pull back the mat to expose the floor plate.


Once floor plate is removed, you will see the stop switch located at the pedals. Switch is secured by two Phillips screws. Unplug the switch, and remove screws. (You will also need to open up the wiring harness retaining clip.


With backing plate facing upwards, carefully remove the four small Phillips screws. Keeping in mind that there is a spring with ball bearing behind the backing plate.


Once apart, clean the rocker plate with electrical contact cleaner. Paying particular attention to the contact area on the underside.


Now grab the other half of the switch and turn it upside down in the palm of your hand carefully, as not to drop the ball bearing or spring and lose them.

Once removed, take the spring and slightly stretch it. This will put more force on the rocker switch, and assure a better contact. You don't need to stretch it much.....probably 2-3mm. Note in the pictures above that the spring is barely seen under the ball bearing. Once stretched slightly, the spring should sit a higher in its mounting hole.



Re-assemble the switch and test prior to re-installing.

Plug the switch in and with the cart in NEAUTRAL, hold the plunger in and turn on the key. When plunger is released, your cart should turn over. Check this operation a few times prior to installation.

Be sure to turn ignition key to the off position again prior to installation. When re-installing the switch, it is helpful to push the gas pedal down to align the bolts.

You just saved yourself $50-$80 ........ Now go buy yourself a cold beer, and some other custom accessories
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