Yamaha 1982 G1 will not start reg problem.

[Cmc628]

Have Yamaha g1 1982 will not start
My Yamaha 1982 g1 will not start. I get no electric at all when I turn the key to reverse on forward. I can jump the voltage reg straight from the batt to positive on reg and the cart will start and run in forward and reverse and will shut off when I but key in off position. Anyone know what might be causing this problem? My guess is bad voltage reg. But not sure.

[Spicyunicorn]

Sounds like your solienoids are acting up is there a clicking noise when you push the gas pedal? Voltage regulator has to do with charging not starting

[Prowlerguy1]

I agree.

By jumpering +Vbatt that way, you are sending power to all the things that normally get powered from the battery only when the key is on and the pedal is pushed. Said another way, it's not the power going to the V/R that is helping you here. It's the power going to the other things that are connected to the same R/W (Red/White stripe) wire that is connected to the V/R.

The problem lies somewhere in 4 components that get power to that R/W wire. Those components are: the +Vbatt fuse; the key switch; and the pedal switch(es); and the pedal switch relay. Those are the 4 components that normally allow power to the R/W wire that feeds power to the starter relay solenoids, the CDI magneto, the CDI Ignition Unit, the S/G Field Excitation and the V/R.

Have you checked the fuses?

You should have a fuse on the +Vbatt side and one on the -Vbatt side. Check (or just replace) them both.

If that doesn't help, you can check a few more things if you have a DC voltmeter and access to the key switch. Here's how:

1. Make sure that the battery is charged and hooked up correctly.
2. Make sure both fuses are good.
3. Pull the plug off the back side of the key switch that has the red wire. Test the Voltage on the Red wire in the plug. Remember, this is hot all the time so don't short that to anything or you'll have to replace the fuse. If there is not +12Vdc on that red wire, the problem is an open wire or loose connection somewhere between the battery and the key switch.
4. If you have +12Vdc on the Red wire in step 3, then put the voltmeter on the White (W) wire in the key switch plug. Now, step on the pedal. You should see +12Vdc show up when you push the pedal down. It should go away when you let the pedal up. If you are not getting this then the problem is either a bad pedal switch or a pedal switch relay.

My suspicion is that either one or the other of the pedal switches is not working correctly, or that the contacts in the pedal switch relay are corroded and not allow +12Vdc to pass on the white wire, or the solenoid in the pedal relay is fried.

Check that out and let us know what you find. I can help you troubleshoot more when we know what you find from these checks.

Regards,
Todd

[Cmc628]

I am only getting 7.5volts at the switch with 12.5 at the battery. Any idea on where to look next? Thinking maybe bad ground? Could not see loose connections on the switch side. Maybe bad ground connection?

[Prowlerguy1]

Yup.

Clean the battery posts and connections to bright shiny metal. Take grounds off of the frame and/or engine and make them clean and shiny with emery cloth or wire wheels.

A fully charged battery with no load on it should be between 13-13.5 volts. Take the battery to Wal-Mart and ask them to put a battery tester on it. It may also be contributing to the problem.

You should be getting nearly the same voltage on the Red wire and the White wire on the key switch plug (using the tests outlined above) as you have on the battery with no load connected.

BTW - did you test the voltage on both the Red and White wires of the key switch?? Is the voltage on the white wire cycling with the pedal pushes?

Keep looking, you'll find it.

Good Luck.
R/Todd

[Prowlerguy1]

Also, don't forget to double check the fuses.

I've seen fuses be partially "blown". They will show continuity, but only with a large associated voltage drop across them.

I've also had them have a broken connection at one end or the other of the fuseable link where it joins the connector that engages the fuse holder. Again, it will show continuity that is either intermittent (or consistently but that also has a voltage drop across them).

Also, the connections of fuses and fuse holders can get corroded and junked up....causing an associated voltage drop across them.

R/Todd

[Cmc628]

I have checked the fuses and replaced both so I know they are good. The white wire is cycling and I am getting the same voltage as the red. I am trying to find where the ground wire goes to the frame and having a hard time finding it. I have checked the voltage from the positive to the frame and I get the same as the battery voltage. 12.5v. Am also able to get 12 volts at coil as well as solenoids. And through - fuse. Just can't find where the ground goes to frame or engine. Any ideas where they are grounded?

Thanks for all your help.

[Prowlerguy1]

Originally Posted by Cmc628

I have checked the fuses and replaced both so I know they are good. The white wire is cycling and I am getting the same voltage as the red.

This is good. It means that this part of the electrical system is working (functionally)....except for the low voltage part.

Originally Posted by Cmc628

I have checked the voltage from the positive to the frame and I get the same as the battery voltage. 12.5v.

Well, this means that your ground connection is probably good. If you are getting the same voltage reading across the two battery terminals that you are getting from the +Batt to the frame....Then your frame is at the same potential (voltage) as the -Batt terminal. That's a good thing.

Originally Posted by Cmc628

Am also able to get 12 volts at coil as well as solenoids. And through - fuse.

This doesn't make sense, electrically (from the wiring diagram). The coil is powered by the CDI Unit (via the Orange Wire). The CDI unit gets its power from the Red wire that sends power to the Key Switch and, ultimately, the White wire. I don't see how the CDI Unit can make 12V for the coil from the 7.5V that it's getting from it's power source (the white wire). Something is up there, but not sure what.

Originally Posted by Cmc628

Just can't find where the ground goes to frame or engine. Any ideas where they are grounded?

No, unfortunately I'm not very familiar with the G1 carts. I've been helping you troubleshoot this just using basic electrical knowledge and the G1A wiring diagram that I posted earlier.

The wiring diagram indicates 2 ground points:

The first one you might be able to find by tracing one of the black wires from your (-) Neg fuse block. There are two back wires attached there, one to each end of your Neg Fuse. One of them you can trace back to your FWD start relay where a heavy black wire is attached that comes from the Neg terminal on the battery. The OTHER black wire on the Neg fuse goes to on to connect with a black wire coming from your backup buzzer and then they are connected to the ground point somewhere.

The second one is going to be attached to the black wire coming off of your Coil connections. The Orange wire from the coil might be paired close to that black wire. Follow it and see if you can find the ground point.

To troubleshoot this farther, I would just start disconnecting (unplugging) all the following components: the V/R, the CDI Magneto, the CDI Ignition Module, and the Coil. Then, put a voltmeter on the Red and/or the White wires at the key switch plug (the side of the plug with the wires, not towards the key and switch). With everything unplugged, the Battery installed, the key on, and the pedal pushed, you should see 12V on the red wire and the white wire. Until you get that, it won't be right.

Then, once you get the 12V on the red and white wires, cycling with the pedal, THEN start plugging components back in, one at a time, and testing the voltage on the Red and the White wires. When you plug in a component that makes the voltage there drop to 7.5Volts, you will have found the "bad guy."

Hopefully, this will help you find the problem.

[Prowlerguy1]

Hey Cmc628,

Just wondering if you found and fixed the problem?

If so, what was it?

Just curious.

Thanks,
Todd

[artieb]

Hi, it seems on this thread is the most information that I have found, while troubleshooting a no charge condition on my G1.
I found my voltage regulator not working.
What I would like to know if instead of a mechanical VR, would be electronically controlled VR.
I know in the automotive industry an electronic VR, is used.
Any experience with anything like this? Apparently this would benefit many generations and makes of golf carts. Thanks for any ideas, Artie