‘09 precedent no juice

[Clubcarfam]

Hello forum, thanks in advance for any help you can provide. I have a club car precedent, from 2009. (Serial # PQ0903-993664) It was modified by blue ridge golf cars, and I purchased it secondhand. I’ve had it for six years, and it has mostly been trouble free. I have done the following maintenance items:

New 4x12v Trojan batteries, two years ago.
New speed sensor, over the winter.

2-3 years ago, the cart began slowing down periodically when at full speed. This happened at any battery voltage, and in any temperature. After researching, I assumed that the speed sensor was at fault, purchased and replaced the original speed sensor about six months ago. it really did not change that problem much.

We have used the cart probably a dozen times since, and it worked for a while. Then, two weeks ago, my wife complained that the cart came to a complete stop while driving at full speed. She waited about 30 seconds, cycled the ignition key off and on, and it begin moving again. Later in the same day, I was driving the cart and the same thing happened. This time, it did not want to come back to life. With the ignition in the on position, we were able to get it to go again, by holding gas pedal down, and rolling the cart forward ( sort of like jumpstarting a manual transmission car ) It engaged, and we were able to drive it home. It stopped about 100 feet from our house, And we pushed it in. Since this time, it has not gone forward or reverse.

After some research here, I decided to replace the solenoid. After replacing the solenoid, the cart still refused to go forward or back. When in the forward position, if the gas pedal is pressed down, it begins to move forward then stops. We are talking about roughly a 1/4 revolution of the tires. After further research, I decided to replace the MCOR. After this, the same symptoms persist.

The reverse buzzer buzzes, and the headlight turns on. I tested the batteries and full voltage is found across the entire pack (no problem).

What is next? The computer? Motor? Are there places around the wiring of the cart that I can check with a multimeter to identify or rule out certain issues?

[NoleFan4Ever]

Those are classic symptoms of either worn out brushes in the motor or a failing controller. When you rolled it and got it to go, that is generally a sign of bad motor brushes. If not, and with a new MCOR and solenoid (providing they are both working) then it would point to a controller issue. (Never count out a gremlin either...)

[Clubcarfam]

Thanks for the quick reply! I will tackle the brushes over the coming weekend.

[TahoeDawgZ71]

Sounds like a motor problem to me. Use a floor jack to lift one rear tire up in the air, while leaving the other on the ground. Flip Tow/Run switch to TOW and disconnect the main positive and main negative battery terminals. Remove the A1, A2, F1, and F2 wires from the motor. Get a multimeter with a diode test (continuity) feature that BEEPS when you put the two leads together, indicating a nice clean connection. Put the meter leads on A1 and A2 and have a friend rotate the tire, thus rotating the motor. You should maintain a clean constant continuity signal throughout the rotation. Repeat the same test for F1 and F2. If you ever lose that beep while the motor is rotating, you've got motor problems.

[Clubcarfam]

Yep - motor problem. Did the test described (THANKS!) and subsequently tore apart the motor. Brushes were in good shape, so something else is up with the motor. Planning to just do a replacement (and upgrade at the same time). The cart is lifted with large tires. Thinking of a higher torque motor vs a higher speed motor. Any input? What motor would be good with the otherwise standard electronics?

Thanks

[TahoeDawgZ71]

Originally Posted by Clubcarfam

Yep - motor problem. Did the test described (THANKS!) and subsequently tore apart the motor. Brushes were in good shape, so something else is up with the motor. Planning to just do a replacement (and upgrade at the same time). The cart is lifted with large tires. Thinking of a higher torque motor vs a higher speed motor. Any input? What motor would be good with the otherwise standard electronics?

Thanks

A true "Torque" motor is going to require a controller upgrade as well. There are high speed motors available for the IQ system that will drop right in with the factory controller. The Admiral MOT-A2 and the D&D 170-506-0002 are both excellent choices to use with your factory controller. Both of these motors will gain substantial torque if you upgrade the controller, cables, and solenoid as well. But if you're going to upgrade the entire system, I recommend the FSIP High Speed motor or High Torque motor.

[NoleFan4Ever]

I am with TD on the recommendations. Take a look here https://www.revolutiongolfcars.com/c...-club-car-prec at some individual parts. Look here https://www.revolutiongolfcars.com/u...-packages-dsiq for combos.

[Clubcarfam]

... Thanks all for your help. But, continuing to have problems.

New motor (D&D 505:2)
New controller (350 A)
New MCOR
New Solenoid
New battery cables

Symptoms are: the solenoid clicks, the cart moves (forward or reverse, depending on the direction of the switch), plenty of power for 3-4 revolutions of the tires, then no power. Flip the tow-run switch to tow then back to run, it will do another 3-4 revolutions of the tires. It almost feels like a fuse is tripping or something, very strange.

Are there any other ideas?

[Fairtax4me]

What does your battery voltage do when this happens?
Put a multi-meter on the pack positive and negative and watch the voltage drop when you hit the pedal. How far down does it go?

Which controller did you end up getting?

[Clubcarfam]

350 amp Curtis controller for the in series precedents.

Drops from 51.0 to 49.9 or 49.7 then the cart stops. Then it rebounds to 50.8- 50.7 v