1998 ezgo help!!!

[Simsbud]

Morning, i took my 1998 ezgo out of the garage this morning and it went about 100 ft and just shut off, no soloniod click no reverse buzzer nothing just dead, any ideas? I replaced the controller last year but i dont believe thats the issue seeing how it does nothing, could it be because i havent charged the batteries in months simply because i dont use it alot? when the cart moved this morning it didnt struggle like it had dieing batteries, any help will be appreciated,

Thanks

[Simsbud]

Update I can bridge the solonoid and it clicks and when I press the gas it moves, also with gear selector in reverse it beeps but only when the pedal is pressed to move , anyone have any input appears non of the electronics are getting power but with the solonoid jumped it moves

[Volt_Ampere]

You need to troubleshoot the circuit that activates the solenoid. Get the schematic out and follow the wires that go to the small terminals on the solenoid.

Charge those batteries first!!!! They are probably pretty dischared if you hae not charged the batteries in "Months". They self discharge about a percent per day so your batteries are dangerously low on charge and that greatly shortens their life!

[Simsbud]

Any help on where to find the solonoid wiring diagram?

[JohnnieB]

A 1998 will either be a DCS or series drive.
Here are schematics for both with solenoid activation circuit highlighted.

[Simsbud]

The seriel tag says e298 if that helps,

[Simsbud]

I have no idea what I'm doing lol, I can build is a race motor but don't know anything about carts

[Simsbud]

I don't have a run tow switch that's what's confusing me while looking at the diagram

[Simsbud]

Is it possible the little jumper between the two small posts on the solonoid went bad?

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by Simsbud

I don't have a run tow switch that's what's confusing me while looking at the diagram

No Run/Tow switch means it is a series drive, so disregard the first schematic and use the second one. The one that says "Series Motor Wiring" at the top.

The thingy between the solenoid's small posts is a diode, but it probably isn't bad.

Unless otherwise stated, connect your voltmeter's black test lead to the battery pack's main negative terminal.

The solenoid activation circuit is four switches and the solenoid coil is series.
The best place to start looking is the smallest of the three wires coming out of the backside of the charge receptacle. You should have full pack voltage on that wire, and at every subsequent wire all the way to the small post on the solenoid with two red wires on it.