Par car slow all the time

[AGELE55]

Originally Posted by Tankercart

gloved finger up the tail pipe.... lol nice. So I took the cylinder off and used the manual lochlin already posted for measuring and inspection. Sadly didn't find anything substantial to determine the cylinder is out of round. A little larger at the bottom of the cylinder but still well within limits. The ring gap is larger. The manual states .007-.023, and mine is .046.

I placed the cylinder on level surface and set the head on top with no gasket in-between. I do notice a very slight rocking one direction and not the other....

After re-examining the piston it's a little more worn than I thought. The skirt has some irregularities. I could buy a new one for 50 bucks and hope for the best.... But I talked to a guy today who told me he'd bore the next OS and mill the head ($70) if I got him the bigger piston and rings. All in $140 dollars. That's 20 dollars cheaper then the new cylinder, but I'd still have to clean all that carbon out of the exhaust port... what do you guys think? .020? worth it?

Side note: the piston connecting rod has some radical play. is that normal? I think there's a roller bearing in there, and probably shouldn't have slop, but it's a 30 year old engine.

For the $ difference, I’d probably go with a new cylinder. .046 is pretty loose. Not sure if it’s 65psi loose, but new parts at least remove all doubt.
So... define “radical play”. Or hopefully you meant radial play...lol

[Tankercart]

Originally Posted by AGELE55

For the $ difference, I’d probably go with a new cylinder. .046 is pretty loose. Not sure if it’s 65psi loose, but new parts at least remove all doubt.
So... define “radical play”. Or hopefully you meant radial play...lol

Darn... I was hoping you were gonna say bore and mill... I weighed it pretty heavily considering my budget. I figured if I got the new cylinder (163) then I need a new piston (50) for a total over $200. The plus would be I don’t have to chisel the carbon. The negative is I’d still need to mill the head to be sure that’s not warped. OR i order and oversized piston/rings and bore and mill for a total of $150. The negative is I have to be so careful getting that carbon out the exhaust port unless the technician does it for me idk... the positive is it increases the power slightly and I can brag about it lol.

Yeah radial play sorry. Forward and aft motion.

[AGELE55]

Ultimately, - your cart and your money = your decision...lol
I’d be really curious to see the results of a wet compression test before you replace or rework the cylinder.

[73eldo]

I have not heard good things about the quality of the replacement cylinders lately but I know that my original lasted a long time so I had mine machined. In theory there is nothing wrong with properly machining one but you get a new one that maybe wasn't machined that well to start with or not very good metal?

[Tankercart]

I am a fan of the wet test because it easy. But I already pulled the cylinder off and committed to machining. I did do a bunch of research on the wet test. Agele55 mentioned it was originally used for 4 stroke engines with valves. Some people do wet test 2 strokes BUT there’s a bunch of people who say “well of course the compression increases” but it doesn’t guide you in troubleshooting and some guys state it ruins your compression tester.

73eldo. Yes I agree.. new parts can be questionable. After doing a bunch of research on the reed valve.. Man there are a bunch of poorly machined reviews for multiple sellers.