Any EZGO TXT experts out there?

[SolarRat]

Originally Posted by msporter10

Awesome info. So if I run the blue ignition wire to the battery + and have voltage at the blue and green.....do I need to run a battery positive wire to the rocker switch at any of those positions?

No, the rocker switch should get it's B+ from the solenoid wire when it's energized. Are you getting B+ to the solenoid (which also feeds the F/R rocker and controller) as soon as you step on the pedal? That's the only thing to worry about here, does the solenoid get B+...if not, you have a problem between the keyswitch and solenoid, which can only be the pedal switch or wiring/molex connector. I'm not sure if an incorrectly installed diode would cause your problem, but its something simple to check anyway.

See if this diagram matches your system...if so it should be easy to duplicate. The reed switch would be in the upper left, but it was bypassed by connecting the blue to the batt + just like you already did.

[msporter10]

Originally Posted by SolarRat

No, the rocker switch should get it's B+ from the solenoid wire when it's energized. Are you getting B+ to the solenoid (which also feeds the F/R rocker and controller) as soon as you step on the pedal? That's the only thing to worry about here, does the solenoid get B+...if not, you have a problem between the keyswitch and solenoid, which can only be the pedal switch or wiring/molex connector. I'm not sure if an incorrectly installed diode would cause your problem, but its something simple to check anyway.

See if this diagram matches your system...if so it should be easy to duplicate. The reed switch would be in the upper left, but it was bypassed by connecting the blue to the batt + just like you already did.

Tha ks for the diagram. Man I wish you were in my garage right now...lol. I know it's hard to tell what's wrong sometimes when you can't see it. Your description is perfect. I do have the center wire from the rocker switch going to the solenoid positive. I also have the blue ignition wire straight to the battery +. The cream and blue wire have full voltage. The issue is when I turn the key over the solenoid doesn't click and the Alltrax does not power on. I feel like there is something SO simple that I am missing. I think you nailed it as far as between the key switch and solenoid. There is some simple connection that isn't clicking the solenoid and controller on when I have key switch on.

The only thing different in the whole setup is that I now have no reed switch wire. That's the most frustrating part.

I very much appreciate your responses.....you obviously know TXTs.

[scottyb]

The solenoid + and the controller are both on the pedal box switch.
Power from battery + to keyswitch blue to pedal green to solenoid red and Alltrax SR controller J1 red. Hope this helps

[msporter10]

Originally Posted by scottyb

The solenoid + and the controller are both on the pedal box switch.
Power from battery + to keyswitch blue to pedal green to solenoid red and Alltrax SR controller J1 red. Hope this helps

I just checked what you wrote. So I have a battery positive directly to blue ignition. There is 51 volts on both the blue and green. The green goes to the pedal box. The red wire with the green wire in the picture is connected to positive side solenoid and runs to the pedal box with the green.

[scottyb]

The throttle green wire goes to the ignition switch terminal I (only hot when key is on). That could be the hitch in the wiring right now

[msporter10]

Originally Posted by scottyb

The throttle green wire goes to the ignition switch terminal I (only hot when key is on). That could be the hitch in the wiring right now

I'm not sure what position 1 is but here is how they are on ignition. I did remove them but I was sure I had put them back on the right position.

[scottyb]

Those terminals are marked I is for ignition. B is for battery. IF you cannot find the letters use your meter to determine where the green wire should be so it has full battery power when the key is on.

[msporter10]

Originally Posted by scottyb

Those terminals are marked I is for ignition. B is for battery. IF you cannot find the letters use your meter to determine where the green wire should be so it has full battery power when the key is on.

Scotty....I can't believe I just realized my SW202 was 36 volt version. I thought that the SW202 could go both 36 and 48 in my head but I just realized it has different diodes. I just ordered a 48 volt version from you (5 min ago) I do t think that will solve my issue of the solonoid not clicking and the controller turning on but I definitely need to change it.

[SolarRat]

Originally Posted by msporter10

...The issue is when I turn the key over the solenoid doesn't click and the Alltrax does not power on. I feel like there is something SO simple that I am missing. I think you nailed it as far as between the key switch and solenoid. There is some simple connection that isn't clicking the solenoid and controller on when I have key switch on...

Yes, you are missing something SO simple. I've mentioned the pedal switch in every one of my posts for a reason. The solenoid on this cart ONLY clicks when you step on the gas pedal. If you are waiting for the solenoid to click when you turn the key, you'll be waiting forever. The pedal has to be pressed to complete the circuit. When it does, you should have pack voltage at the solenoid, Alltrax and rocker switch. Not before.

Let us know what voltage you get at the small red wire on the solenoid, with and without the pedal pressed. Do one set of tests with your meter negative on the battery pack negative, then another with your meter negative on the small black wires on the solenoid...let us know what you find.

I'm going to guess that picture above with the 4 wires butt-connected together was a previous repair, replacing the problematic 4-pin molex connector I talked about above with crimp connectors. If they were done right they shouldn't be a problem...but I'd still consider them suspect because they look like cheap crimps with no heat shrink sealing. I'd solder those wires, whether they are the current problem or not. The green wire carries pack voltage to the pedal switch which, when pressed, passes the pack voltage through the red wire to the solenoid. The white and black go to your ITS sensor. They are all way too important for cheap crimps.

Forget about your key switch, it's not your problem. As long as that green wire has pack voltage, the key switch and everything before it is irrelevant.

[msporter10]

Originally Posted by SolarRat

Yes, you are missing something SO simple. I've mentioned the pedal switch in every one of my posts for a reason. The solenoid on this cart ONLY clicks when you step on the gas pedal. If you are waiting for the solenoid to click when you turn the key, you'll be waiting forever. The pedal has to be pressed to complete the circuit. When it does, you should have pack voltage at the solenoid, Alltrax and rocker switch. Not before.

Let us know what voltage you get at the small red wire on the solenoid, with and without the pedal pressed. Do one set of tests with your meter negative on the battery pack negative, then another with your meter negative on the small black wires on the solenoid...let us know what you find.

I'm going to guess that picture above with the 4 wires butt-connected together was a previous repair, replacing the problematic 4-pin molex connector I talked about above with crimp connectors. If they were done right they shouldn't be a problem...but I'd still consider them suspect because they look like cheap crimps with no heat shrink sealing. I'd solder those wires, whether they are the current problem or not. The red and green wires carry your pack voltage, the white and black go to your ITS sensor. They are all way too important for cheap crimps.

Forget about your key switch, it's not your problem. As long as that green wire has pack voltage, the key switch and everything before it is irrelevant.

Yeah sorry I just realized one other critical thing. My SW202 is a 36 volt version with those diodes. I thought the SW202 was both 36 and 48 but just realized I have the 36 diodes. I am not sure that will solve my issue of the controller powering on but I just ordered the 48 volt version. What a rookie mistake....