Planning Engine Swap

[KOZ45]

The flywheel on the salvage 18hp engine came off much easier than the other engine

No heat and no hammer required, just the puller

However, the starter on the salvage Briggs looks to have a 15 gear tooth, that is also a metal gear tooth

I am going to hook up the salvage engine's starter and see how well it works and see if I need to sell the plastic 16 gear tooth starter

[KOZ45]

B&S in the past had plastic starter gears for aluminum ring gears, and steel starter gears for steel ring gears.

[KOZ45]

Started tearing down the parts engine

[KOZ45]

New stator generator and flywheel installed

Going to get the starter bolted on, run some fuel lines and hook up the pump......and make sure it starts and runs

Was thinking about replacing both coil packs if the engine sounds OK. Or just leave them?

[KOZ45]

I found info about the air gap spacing between the ignition coils and the flywheel should be:

.008" - .012"

Most videos say to just use a piece of paper for the air gap spacing

[slonomo]

A piece of paper is too thin. Old schoolers will use a matchbook lol. Thick paper would work. But why not just get a set of brass feeler gauges and do it the right way?

[KOZ45]

I have a set of feeler gauges and plan on using them

The statement of the paper was just said for reference

I will use the recommended specs in the Briggs OHV vtwin manual

[KOZ45]

I used the flywheel from the parts engine, so I didn't have to spend any money on another flywheel or new ring gear

Used some anti seize on the shaft and key, and have the flywheel bolted on

The flywheel nut needs to be torqued on, but I need to figure out how to hold it to keep it from turning, when I torque the nut down

Hopefully get the starter (15 tooth - metal gear) also installed this weekend

The ignition coils are installed and shimmed to
.010

[slonomo]

For flywheels I always clean the crank and flywheel really good with brake cleaner, use lapping compound to lap the two together, clean it good again, then mount it dry using an impact wrench. Never had any issues. Not sure I would use any lubricant because you don't want the flywheel to move, it rely's on the friction fit to hold it in place. If your flywheel moves on the shaft, it will shear the timing key and it will throw your timing off and your engine won't run. Happens all the time. In fact, I've even put flywheels on without a timing key and they hold using the same procedure. The timing key doesn't really hold anything in place, it just lines up the two parts.

[raydhd]

For the B&S 's heavy flywheel I would lap the 2 pieces with valve grinding compound. To torque the flywheel I usually attach something to the output side of the crankshaft. Again I always use a torque wrench set to the proper torque.P.S.You can see the pics on pages 9 and 11 of my Omega build the finished crank snout and my method of torquing the flywheel.P.P.S. Jody Powell from ARCracing has an excellent video on youtube on billet flywheel installation. I pretty much followed it to the letter. Nothing like watching a pro small engine builder from a race supply house on how they do it.