2004 DS Series cart - bad controller ?

[VT_Ron]

I just picked up a 2004 DS 48volt series cart not running. Curtis model 1204-410 stock control. The PO said it was fine came out to go again and nothing. It has 2 yr old Trojan batteries, full pack charge 50.8. The solenoid clicked (engaged) when I got it, but replaced with a new one to be sure. The OBC is functioning as it should, I have checked the output of the MCOR at the controller and it is good and changes smoothly with the pedal. I have checked all of the microswitches- all good. When I check the control from B+ to M- key on in FWD with pedal not depressed I read 40.7 volts and when I depress the pedal it goes to pack voltage. From what I read in my Curtis manual - the control is bad. Any confirmation or advice from those much more experienced that me would be greatly appreciated.

[Tom47]

Originally Posted by VT_Ron

I just picked up a 2004 DS 48volt series cart not running. Curtis model 1204-410 stock control. The PO said it was fine came out to go again and nothing. It has 2 yr old Trojan batteries, full pack charge 50.8. The solenoid clicked (engaged) when I got it, but replaced with a new one to be sure. The OBC is functioning as it should, I have checked the output of the MCOR at the controller and it is good and changes smoothly with the pedal. I have checked all of the microswitches- all good. When I check the control from B+ to M- key on in FWD with pedal not depressed I read 40.7 volts and when I depress the pedal it goes to pack voltage. From what I read in my Curtis manual - the control is bad. Any confirmation or advice from those much more experienced that me would be greatly appreciated.

What does the manual say about the control being bad? Is the voltage before pressing the pedal incorrect? The voltage after pressing the pedal is correct at full pack voltage. Your full pack voltage is slightly under 100%.

You could have a problem with the forward/ reverse lever. A corroded contact or loose cable could cause what you describe. You would still see pack voltage between B+ and M-.

[VT_Ron]

Yes - the voltage is before the pedal is pushed. It also reads the same voltage with the key off. The Curtis manual says it should be 0 voltage. I read the same voltage at the fed/fev switch.

[Tom47]

Originally Posted by VT_Ron

Yes - the voltage is before the pedal is pushed. It also reads the same voltage with the key off. The Curtis manual says it should be 0 voltage. I read the same voltage at the fed/fev switch.

You're having continuity between B- and M- in the controller or there is a ground in the motor or FNR switch. The main solenoid resister will cause you to read voltage across the solenoid main contacts when it is open.

Disconnect the wires to B- and M- and check for continuity (resistance) between those two terminals. You should no continuity between them. Also check for grounds in motor and FNR lever contacts.

I believe your controller may be defective if you don't find a ground somewhere else. Series cart experts may jump in here to agree or disagree with this diagnosis.