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Old 11-04-2018, 08:31 AM   #51
NoleFan4Ever
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Default Re: DS No Go

You are correct. That is a Series cart so your high amperage switching is controlled by the FNR lever and not the controller. Since your solenoid is engaging the MS's must be working but the contact(s) could be bad on the FNR or there could be a bad connection.
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Old 11-04-2018, 09:12 AM   #52
Sergio
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Default Re: DS No Go

You may have a wiring issue:
Quote:
Alltrax controller LED will not light up, but solenoid clicks.
The same wire that goes from MS #1 to the solenoid positive activation also goes to Controller Pin #1, so make sure that is the case.

How are You doing reverse speed?
  1. Using Club Car standard MS #3 with resistor to limit throttle.
  2. Rewired the cart to use the AXE 1/2 speed pin.
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Old 11-04-2018, 11:19 AM   #53
Ribber
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Default Re: DS No Go

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sergio View Post
You may have a wiring issue:


The same wire that goes from MS #1 to the solenoid positive activation also goes to Controller Pin #1, so make sure that is the case.

How are You doing reverse speed?
  1. Using Club Car standard MS #3 with resistor to limit throttle.
  2. Rewired the cart to use the AXE 1/2 speed pin.
I removed the resistor on MS #3 when I had another issue two years ago that you helped me with. So, I have full speed reverse and my HPD is disabled.
http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...r-surging.html

I am fairly positive the MS #1 wire goes to solenoid then pin #1 but I'll double check.
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Old 11-10-2018, 11:55 AM   #54
Ribber
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Default Re: DS No Go

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sergio View Post
You may have a wiring issue:


The same wire that goes from MS #1 to the solenoid positive activation also goes to Controller Pin #1, so make sure that is the case.

How are You doing reverse speed?
  1. Using Club Car standard MS #3 with resistor to limit throttle.
  2. Rewired the cart to use the AXE 1/2 speed pin.
Pulled the cart in the shop this morning and noticed a slight burning smell. Sniffed all around and seemed it was strongest right under the seat. Pulled the FnR off and this is what I found. Looks like a melted terminal. The cable was stuck to the body of the switch.

Also, the spade terminal on the top of MS#2 was barely attached, most definitely not making connection.
This wire goes to B- on the controller if I am looking at the wiring diagram correctly. What is it's purpose?

Obviously, I need a new FnR switch. What could have caused this, and would this have been the root of my recent issues?
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Old 11-10-2018, 12:50 PM   #55
scottyb
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Default Re: DS No Go

All of the amperage flowing from the batteries to the motor go through the F&R contacts. The OEM F&R can be a weak point in the amperage delivery system since the contacts are friction points which do wear over time.

I understand the original complaint was a shudder under load and that certainly could be caused by poor F&R contact.
A shudder is also common when battery voltage is low..... speaking of which when battery voltage gets low battery amperage draw increases dramatically which causes more component heat. So it's often a combination of things that lead to a failure.

Get a HD F&R switch.
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Old 11-12-2018, 08:33 PM   #56
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Default Re: DS No Go

Quote:
Originally Posted by scottyb View Post
All of the amperage flowing from the batteries to the motor go through the F&R contacts. The OEM F&R can be a weak point in the amperage delivery system since the contacts are friction points which do wear over time.

I understand the original complaint was a shudder under load and that certainly could be caused by poor F&R contact.
A shudder is also common when battery voltage is low..... speaking of which when battery voltage gets low battery amperage draw increases dramatically which causes more component heat. So it's often a combination of things that lead to a failure.

Get a HD F&R switch.
I ordered a new one from you, but the one I have is a HD. Maybe an older version.
I really hope this solves my issues. I am officially in the 'throwing parts at it' phase.
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