97 CC 48v not running

[Samteryx]

I have a 97 48v that im having a time with,It will not run .I have 50v across the pack,load tested all batteries, key switch good,reverse buzzer working charger working,i hear a click from the accelerator switch.This model has the rocker switch and no tow/run switch it also has the controller with a 12 wire plug up into it.I bought the cart used and it has a neg feed wire to the solenoid on the pass side,that same solenoid has a jumper cable across the large terminals.This cart also has the large resister coil coming off the middle solenoid with green and white cables.Any ideas of what to check next?

[Samteryx]

I forgot to add that this cart has been great for 3 years no issues and the motor will run when jumped straight from the batteries.

[NoleFan4Ever]

That is a Regen 1 cart - Ouch!! To be sure, would need to see a pic of the controller. (At best it is still a regen 2)

They were notorious for controller issues (And a lot more!!)

Others can chime in on more ideas....

[Samteryx]

It has the t shaped controller gen 1 I suppose. I tried the yellow wire to ground and blue and white wires together. I tried white wire from controller to A2 on the motor and NOTHING.Whats my next step?

[NoleFan4Ever]

When you say a jumper cable across the large terminals are you referring to a precharge resistor or it is actually jumped with a heavy cable?

And have you been able to get the main solenoid/contactor to click or close in and pass current through it?

Pictures of all this would really help.

[Samteryx]

The solenoid has a heavy cable connecting the posts(basically bypassing it)

[joesam]

On a Gen 1 controller (without a bypassed main solenoid), the controller powers-up the main solenoid and you would hear a distinct CLICK. If you remove that solenoid jumper, test the small gauge wires for 48v when you turn the key switch. If there is 48v when you turn the key - then a prior owner bypassed a failed solenoid (bad idea - it's a safety thing).

More likely there is no voltage on the small wires when you turn the key; and that tells you that your controller has already had a partial failure of one of it's primary functions.

The above statement assumes that the bypassed solenoid is the one WITHOUT the coiled wire resistor...correct?

[NoleFan4Ever]

Yeah, I think you are back to a controller issue as we first cited. Those are no longer made that I know of.....

There are upgrade kits out there to adapt it.

[Samteryx]

Yes the jumpered solenoid is the main one not the one going to the brake coil.

[joesam]

Well it sure sounds like a failed controller - you can perform some other random checks (see THIS THREAD) - but it sounds very much like your controller has failed on more than just the solenoid activation function.