99 EZ GO only goes in reverse.

[del50man]

EF62B7FB-4A12-45C4-BD03-C8D3F628922A.jpg

This Ms is for the forward side of the FNR. This ms clicks by me releasing the metal lever. When I have it the forward position and tires are moving backward I lift the metal lever and cart starts beeping and stops the wheels from spinning.

[JohnnieB]

The red wire to the beeper is connected to the solenoid's battery side large terminal, so it has B+ on it at all times. The beeper's black wire is connected to Pin-3 on the controller and the controller connects B- to Pin-3 whenever the controller wants the beeper to beep. When You lift the lever on the "Run" switch, you've effectively turned the key off and if the motor is turning, the controller goes into something akin to the walkaway safety feature.

The two switches on the F/R are Run and Reverse. The controller defaults to forward, so to go forward only the N.O. contacts of the Run switch have to be closed by pressing the lever. In Reverse, both the N.O. contact of the Run switch and the N.O. contacts of the Reverse switch must be closed. See the attached images of the F/R switch assembly in F, N and R.

In Forward, there should be pack voltage on controller Pin-6 (Yellow wire)
In Reverse, there should pack voltage on Pin-6 and Pin-4 (Orange wire), and beeper should beep.
In Neutral, there shouldn't be voltage on either Pin-4 or Pin-6 and the beeper shouldn't be sounding.

If you have the proper voltage on the correct pins for each of the three F/N/R positions of the direction selector lever, as listed above, then the controller is bad.

[del50man]

Thank you so much for your detailed response. I will get back to working on the cart Tuesday.

[kgsc]

Does the beeper stop when switched to forward? If yes and it still spins backwards controller is shot.

[del50man]

Put the new controller in and now the wheels spin forward and reverse, but when the wheels are on the ground, the cart acts like it wants to move. The voltage is 38v, so that's not an issue. Can it be the FNR bad as well? Acts like something isn't getting the correct contact for the FNR?
Also, can I use a different FNR for this cart? I have the current one that is the picture above that Johnnie B posted.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by del50man

Put the new controller in and now the wheels spin forward and reverse, but when the wheels are on the ground, the cart acts like it wants to move. The voltage is 38v, so that's not an issue. Can it be the FNR bad as well? Acts like something isn't getting the correct contact for the FNR?
Also, can I use a different FNR for this cart? I have the current one that is the picture above that Johnnie B posted.

If the wheels spin in both forward and reverse with wheels off the ground, the FNR is most likely good.

Not moving with wheels on ground, but acting like it wants to, indicates the armature isn't getting the amps it needs to produce the torque needed to move the cart, or the field winding are getting the right amps, or the throttle signal isn't right.

Connect your DVM between the controllers M- and B+ terminals and press pedal. Should start at about 0V and increase to full battery pack voltage (38V) when pedal is on floor. If so the correct voltages are being applied to the armature, but the cables to the armature or brushes may have issues.

Connect your DVM between the controllers F1 and F2 terminals. With the cart trying to move there ought to be about 15V or higher between them. Also check the F1 & F2 cables for worn through insulation as they go around the battery box. (See attached image)

Need to know make/model of controller for throttle testing.

BTW: A pack voltage of 38.0V is only about 50% charged.

-------------------
The FNR can be checked by checking for the correct voltage on pins 4 & 6 at the controller. I listed them earlier, but here they are again:
In Forward, there should be pack voltage on controller Pin-6 (Yellow wire)
In Reverse, there should pack voltage on Pin-6 and Pin-4 (Orange wire), and beeper should beep.
In Neutral, there shouldn't be voltage on either Pin-4 or Pin-6 and the beeper shouldn't be sounding.


Also the kludge of a FNR switch EZGO used can be replaced with a DPDT/Center-OFF switch. Diagram attached.

[nickdalzell1]

I'd load test the batteries to eliminate a possible bad one. These controllers don't like low voltage (EOL's them)

[del50man]

Ok so i finally got a chance to check the below information you passed along. The cart is a 36v cart. The cables weren’t worn. Checked ohms and the wires were good to go. Checked the F1 and F2 wires that only read 1.5-2 volts with pedal pressed in.

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

If the wheels spin in both forward and reverse with wheels off the ground, the FNR is most likely good.

Not moving with wheels on ground, but acting like it wants to, indicates the armature isn't getting the amps it needs to produce the torque needed to move the cart, or the field winding are getting the right amps, or the throttle signal isn't right.

Connect your DVM between the controllers M- and B+ terminals and press pedal. Should start at about 0V and increase to full battery pack voltage (38V) when pedal is on floor. If so the correct voltages are being applied to the armature, but the cables to the armature or brushes may have issues.

Connect your DVM between the controllers F1 and F2 terminals. With the cart trying to move there ought to be about 15V or higher between them. Also check the F1 & F2 cables for worn through insulation as they go around the battery box. (See attached image)

Need to know make/model of controller for throttle testing.

BTW: A pack voltage of 38.0V is only about 50% charged.

-------------------
The FNR can be checked by checking for the correct voltage on pins 4 & 6 at the controller. I listed them earlier, but here they are again:
In Forward, there should be pack voltage on controller Pin-6 (Yellow wire)
In Reverse, there should pack voltage on Pin-6 and Pin-4 (Orange wire), and beeper should beep.
In Neutral, there shouldn't be voltage on either Pin-4 or Pin-6 and the beeper shouldn't be sounding.


Also the kludge of a FNR switch EZGO used can be replaced with a DPDT/Center-OFF switch. Diagram attached.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by del50man

Ok so i finally got a chance to check the below information you passed along. The cart is a 36v cart. The cables weren’t worn. Checked ohms and the wires were good to go. Checked the F1 and F2 wires that only read 1.5-2 volts with pedal pressed in.

What is the voltage on the armature when the field is only 1.5 - 2 Volts?


What is the field voltage when the pedal is pushed just far enough to make solenoid click and what is the max voltage reached as pedal is slowly pushed to floor.

When the field amps are high, the motor is in its high torque mode and when field amps are low, it is in its high speed mode. I don't have any field amps or volts specs for a DCS motor, but the field volts on the motors I do have specs on, need about 5V to push 3A through the field windings and that is the recommended minimum field amps for those motors.

If the motor is trying to start spinning while in the high speed mode (low field amps), it might not be able to move the cart.

[JohnnieB]

You said it seems like it tries to run. Can you get someone to push it to get it moving and see if it'll run once moving.