When to add a second voltage reducer?

[johnstu]

Trying to decide if I need a second voltage reducer. Have a 30amp Pro-Fit now. Worked that the Bazooka Party bar can use most that by itself. Running TXT led lights, Bazooka Party Bar G2, 4pc underbody LedGlow, . Adding a 21" light bar. Had one volt reducer blow already( may not be related to load. D ciei g if the Party Bar should be on a separate one by itself( up to 450 watts,

[orangeman6]

Originally Posted by johnstu

Trying to decide if I need a second voltage reducer. Have a 30amp Pro-Fit now. Worked that the Bazooka Party bar can use most that by itself. Running TXT led lights, Bazooka Party Bar G2, 4pc underbody LedGlow, . Adding a 21" light bar. Had one volt reducer blow already( may not be related to load. D ciei g if the Party Bar should be on a separate one by itself( up to 450 watts,

I think you’re totally fine, but you can google the calculation, or maybe one of the stereo gurus will chime in. For starters, that 450 Watts is max. The rms, is usually half that, and is what you start calculating by. Most guys double it to safely account for the inherent inefficiency of the amp. You divide that by the voltage, then divide by three. I think you have plenty of room even if you played it at full blast constantly, hitch I seriously doubt you will do. You can figure the amp draw of your lights too, but those led’s don’t draw much at all.

[Mooncarter]

I know this is not what you are asking, but have you considered adding a 12 volt battery to run the sound system?

I would mount one enclosed in something under that back seat. Just have to charge it separately.

[Buggieman18]

Your accessories may have the watts drawn in the accompanying manual or printed on the box, otherwise, look up the *max values*, add them up, and pick a reducer that is about 20% above what you need, with extra room if you think you are gonna add more stuff. Replace with a bigger one for simplicity or add a second one to save $$ with more wire clutter the trade-off. Your stereo will likely won't reach that max unless you blast it, so rms/continuous as stated would be a good starting point for that component, which is usually an overestimation of what you'll actually need.

[orangeman6]

A very ballpark way is to look at the fuse supplied with the bazooka. That gives you an idea of the potential amp draw.