96 CC regen question, Solenoids

cmartin · 05-04-2008, 11:04 AM

Car got new trojen t860 last year still slow as a snail. Left on charger all week took specific gravity readings. Find all cells at about 1236 temp corrected ("fair level"). 49 volt across pack(unpluged) 8vdc per batt. Re-plugged in went to 9 per bat, 56vdc pack 10 amps on charger. Lat year car would crawl along and suck batteries down fast. Regen on down hill never really kick in like use to. Dug around yester day find two solonoids, one seems to allow power from key turn to rebuilt GE EV4L4XB2 controller and controls. The other solinoidis also a normally open, and on speed pedal increase the coil gets powered closing the circuit and looks to be for high speed operation. With contacts open power is re-routed through a monster resistor mounted by the frame (slow speed?). Since the contacts never really closed (no continuty post to post) I removed the resistor circuit and solinoid and am running direct to motor. Cart seems to run better.
Am I on the right track? My guess is that running with that resistor in line all the time I lost speed and run time as it would just make heat?
The low Battery level is a whole other issue.
By the look of this bad solonoid its a 48volt coil and by it size handles one heck of alot of amps (+100). Just how many? I may be able to buy through Grainger but other sources can be tried. Any ideas?

Nate · 05-05-2008, 01:51 AM

Typically the big resistor is to limit current when in regen mode and is suppose to be out of the circuit when the accelerator is pressed. I am not an expert on regen carts but you are correct on the basics, that big resistor should not be in the circuit while driving. Sounds like something is not wired exactly correct.

cmartin · 05-05-2008, 06:06 PM

Thanks for the return. Since with or with out coil voltage the contacts never shifted its kinda hard to tell its intended use. the contacts were always open forcing the resistor to be in line all the time. I can tell the regen is much more active on the down hill and while its still slow its faster than it was. Any ideas were to find a replacement? Again Thank you

Nate · 05-07-2008, 01:56 AM

Do you have a meter with an ohms setting? Remove one wire from the solenoid's small post and put the ohmmeter across the two small posts. It should read no less than 18 ohms and no more than 100 ohms. If it reads "OPEN" (above 100 ohms) then the solenoid is bad. If it reads a decent resistance we need to figure out if it is getting a voltage. If it is getting a voltage the contacts (large posts) might be burned.

To check voltage set you meter on DC Volts then clip each meter lead to the small posts on the solenoid after you re-attach the wire you removed to check "ohms". Drive the cart a short distance and watch for pack voltage to show up on the meter.

I want to make sure the old solenoid is really bad before you go spending money on a new one.

Nate · 05-07-2008, 02:04 AM

Notes:
Trying to read a voltage with the meter set on "Ohms" can damage the meter so watch your settings.
Clipping meter leads on a solenoid then going for a drive can be hard if you do not have alligator leads for your meter so be careful when you attempt this.
Don't worry about polarity of the meter, if you hook it up backwards you will get a negative reading but it will be accurate.
You can remove the solenoid and bench test it if you prefer, I can give details if you are interested.

Good luck!

cmartin · 05-07-2008, 05:51 PM

Thanks Nate, yeah, been down that route. If I remember arout 83 ohms? The little bugger clacks as it is energized, so the coil is good, but the contact points remain open. This of course keeps the dang monster resistor inline. For now I have removed the solenoid contact leads and I am running without the resistor. The main leads are joined together. Just as if the Solenoid points were closed. Cart seems faster regen kicks in like it used to. Have ordered a new one through LVS since no one had a better idea.
Thanks
Chris

Timmmy65!! · 11-28-2023, 01:05 PM

My cart has 2 solenoids, one is for dynamic braking. Can I eliminate the 2nd solenoid? I also have no click to solenoid when key is on. Cart won't run at all with new batteries, new solenoid, new key switch. All wires have continuity. Do I have a bad controller?

Timmmy65!! · 11-28-2023, 01:08 PM

Where did you buy the controller PN GE EV4L4XB2? I need the same controller!!

05-04-2008, 11:04 AM	#1
cmartin Not Yet Wild Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: ILL Posts: 5	96 CC regen question, Solenoids Car got new trojen t860 last year still slow as a snail. Left on charger all week took specific gravity readings. Find all cells at about 1236 temp corrected ("fair level"). 49 volt across pack(unpluged) 8vdc per batt. Re-plugged in went to 9 per bat, 56vdc pack 10 amps on charger. Lat year car would crawl along and suck batteries down fast. Regen on down hill never really kick in like use to. Dug around yester day find two solonoids, one seems to allow power from key turn to rebuilt GE EV4L4XB2 controller and controls. The other solinoidis also a normally open, and on speed pedal increase the coil gets powered closing the circuit and looks to be for high speed operation. With contacts open power is re-routed through a monster resistor mounted by the frame (slow speed?). Since the contacts never really closed (no continuty post to post) I removed the resistor circuit and solinoid and am running direct to motor. Cart seems to run better. Am I on the right track? My guess is that running with that resistor in line all the time I lost speed and run time as it would just make heat? The low Battery level is a whole other issue. By the look of this bad solonoid its a 48volt coil and by it size handles one heck of alot of amps (+100). Just how many? I may be able to buy through Grainger but other sources can be tried. Any ideas?

05-05-2008, 01:51 AM	#2
Nate Gone Wild Join Date: Dec 2006 Posts: 679	Re: 96 CC regen question, Solenoids Typically the big resistor is to limit current when in regen mode and is suppose to be out of the circuit when the accelerator is pressed. I am not an expert on regen carts but you are correct on the basics, that big resistor should not be in the circuit while driving. Sounds like something is not wired exactly correct.
Nate Gone Wild Join Date: Dec 2006 Posts: 679

05-05-2008, 06:06 PM	#3
cmartin Not Yet Wild Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: ILL Posts: 5	Re: 96 CC regen question, Solenoids Thanks for the return. Since with or with out coil voltage the contacts never shifted its kinda hard to tell its intended use. the contacts were always open forcing the resistor to be in line all the time. I can tell the regen is much more active on the down hill and while its still slow its faster than it was. Any ideas were to find a replacement? Again Thank you

05-07-2008, 01:56 AM	#4
Nate Gone Wild Join Date: Dec 2006 Posts: 679	Re: 96 CC regen question, Solenoids Do you have a meter with an ohms setting? Remove one wire from the solenoid's small post and put the ohmmeter across the two small posts. It should read no less than 18 ohms and no more than 100 ohms. If it reads "OPEN" (above 100 ohms) then the solenoid is bad. If it reads a decent resistance we need to figure out if it is getting a voltage. If it is getting a voltage the contacts (large posts) might be burned. To check voltage set you meter on DC Volts then clip each meter lead to the small posts on the solenoid after you re-attach the wire you removed to check "ohms". Drive the cart a short distance and watch for pack voltage to show up on the meter. I want to make sure the old solenoid is really bad before you go spending money on a new one.
Nate Gone Wild Join Date: Dec 2006 Posts: 679

05-07-2008, 02:04 AM	#5
Nate Gone Wild Join Date: Dec 2006 Posts: 679	Re: 96 CC regen question, Solenoids Notes: Trying to read a voltage with the meter set on "Ohms" can damage the meter so watch your settings. Clipping meter leads on a solenoid then going for a drive can be hard if you do not have alligator leads for your meter so be careful when you attempt this. Don't worry about polarity of the meter, if you hook it up backwards you will get a negative reading but it will be accurate. You can remove the solenoid and bench test it if you prefer, I can give details if you are interested. Good luck!
Nate Gone Wild Join Date: Dec 2006 Posts: 679

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05-07-2008, 05:51 PM	#6
cmartin Not Yet Wild Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: ILL Posts: 5	Re: 96 CC regen question, Solenoids Thanks Nate, yeah, been down that route. If I remember arout 83 ohms? The little bugger clacks as it is energized, so the coil is good, but the contact points remain open. This of course keeps the dang monster resistor inline. For now I have removed the solenoid contact leads and I am running without the resistor. The main leads are joined together. Just as if the Solenoid points were closed. Cart seems faster regen kicks in like it used to. Have ordered a new one through LVS since no one had a better idea. Thanks Chris

11-28-2023, 01:05 PM	#7
Timmmy65!! Not Yet Wild Join Date: Nov 2023 Posts: 6	Re: 96 CC regen question, Solenoids My cart has 2 solenoids, one is for dynamic braking. Can I eliminate the 2nd solenoid? I also have no click to solenoid when key is on. Cart won't run at all with new batteries, new solenoid, new key switch. All wires have continuity. Do I have a bad controller?
Timmmy65!! Not Yet Wild Join Date: Nov 2023 Posts: 6

11-28-2023, 01:08 PM	#8
Timmmy65!! Not Yet Wild Join Date: Nov 2023 Posts: 6	Re: 96 CC regen question, Solenoids Where did you buy the controller PN GE EV4L4XB2? I need the same controller!!
Timmmy65!! Not Yet Wild Join Date: Nov 2023 Posts: 6

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