YDRE Key on and no click from solenoid

[rstacy]

The back up buzzer is a great indicator.
Does it come on in reverse? (make sure that it is plugged in)
If it does the fuse is good and the controller is alive.(not necessarily working but alive)
No buzzer is a good indication of a failed controller. (again assuming that the buzzer is plugged in and functional and the fuse is good)

[Peth0201]

If the cart does not buzz in reverse, it is most likely a controller that's bad.

edit: I just went through this whole process.

[Wade braswell]

Someone mentioned a member that sales after market controller? Can i get info? Does he have in stock? Will it work with stock cart

[Volt_Ampere]

I recommend Alltrax controllers. I have two YDRE carts and both have Alltrax.

[Golf Cart Surgeon]

How do you test the controller to verify it's bad?

I have the same thing going on, 53v to solenoid, nothing happens, no clicks, no reverse buzzer.

[Volt_Ampere]

No reverse buzzer with the stock Moric controller usually means it's dead. Make sure that the power fuse is good for the run/tow and key switch circuit. (3 amp fuse behind driver's seat against the frame in the back.)

[rstacy]

Originally Posted by Golf Cart Surgeon

How do you test the controller to verify it's bad?

I have the same thing going on, 53v to solenoid, nothing happens, no clicks, no reverse buzzer.

Here is a very important test.
When the car is put in to run mode, The solenoid clicks once. If the controller doesn't see this happen it will immediately shut down. The result is no back up buzzer and no movement.
Why might this happen? A bad solenoid. I just had one today. It looked like a bad controller but was actually a bad solenoid.
Always test the solenoid before changing the controller. Make sure that the solenoid closes when you apply 48 volts to one side and ground to the other. Verify that when the solenoid is closed you have 0 ohms across the big terminals. You will have to disconnect all 4 wires from the solenoid to do this test safely.

[Golf Cart Surgeon]

Originally Posted by Volt_Ampere

No reverse buzzer with the stock Moric controller usually means it's dead. Make sure that the power fuse is good for the run/tow and key switch circuit. (3 amp fuse behind driver's seat against the frame in the back.)

Ya I checked that....

[Golf Cart Surgeon]

Originally Posted by rstacy

Here is a very important test.
When the car is put in to run mode, The solenoid clicks once. If the controller doesn't see this happen it will immediately shut down. The result is no back up buzzer and no movement.
Why might this happen? A bad solenoid. I just had one today. It looked like a bad controller but was actually a bad solenoid.
Always test the solenoid before changing the controller. Make sure that the solenoid closes when you apply 48 volts to one side and ground to the other. Verify that when the solenoid is closed you have 0 ohms across the big terminals. You will have to disconnect all 4 wires from the solenoid to do this test safely.

I've tried four solenoids now, one is a MODZ heavy duty that I have laying around. 53v into the solenoid from main pack, nothing on the other side, no click, no engagement. What about the small terminals can I test? they each have 53v if I ground to the main negative.

Also, what about the TPS? 5v in and 5v out while pressing the accelerator.

[rstacy]

Originally Posted by Golf Cart Surgeon

I've tried four solenoids now, one is a MODZ heavy duty that I have laying around. 53v into the solenoid from main pack, nothing on the other side, no click, no engagement. What about the small terminals can I test? they each have 53v if I ground to the main negative.

Also, what about the TPS? 5v in and 5v out while pressing the accelerator.

Solenoid failure is rare but it happens. It sounds like you have eliminated that possibility. The red/yellow wire is the feed voltage. The other wire is the ground control from the controller. If you ground this terminal the solenoid should close.