Help on a 1996 EZ GO DCS, wont operate

[ourbudd]

I am helping a friend out, last week I looked at his cart and with help from this site figured out it is a Txt with the DCS control as best I can tell (switch on cover). The cart had died when his son was driving it and something smoked underneath. After checking out the only thing I found burnt is the resistor across the solenoid, This is the one with 2 diodes on it and the diodes were blown. He ordered a new one and installed it but when he installed it and went to connect the battery it sparked each time he tried to connect it. I am going out tomorrow to check it further and will use the EZGO diagnostics sticky to start but in case anyone had any suggestions any help is appreciated. I attached a pic of the resistor that he replaced. Thanks,

[scottyb]

There is a fuse link at the battery. Flip the switch to TOW & disconnect the battery pack before replacing the resistor board.... If it continues to spark you may have other problems?

[ourbudd]

I dug deeped today and here is what I found, even with the switch in tow it sparks when I attempt to connect the battery cable. I then disconnected the wires going to the motor and took readings between the A terminals and F1/F2 and there was no contuity (OK). Then I tested for sparks with all of the motor leads and again a heavy spark, then I disconnected the wire from the solenoid to the controller and it did not spark when I connected the batteries. After all of this I feel the controller is bad. I took it off and removed the cover and it wasn't fried like some pics I have seen on here but there was a heat mark on the top board. Does anyone know any testing for the terminals for the controller, we are 90% sure that is it I just hate to tell someone that and be wrong? There is no label on the controller, it is an EZ GO and looks like the pictures of a DCS one like model 73326G-0?

Any help is appreciated, Thanks

[scottyb]

If it is a DCS cart then the controller is likely fried. Those stupid carts eat controllers in any low voltage situation.... DCS =










Thanks Roady for the emoticom
Wait now I can't give a thumbs up?
Okay delete the crybaby!

[mikesmotortoys]

DCS carts are VERY hard to diagnose when you're standing over them. Even harder in a forum. There is a reason they stopped being made in 1999 and went to the PDS. I know this doesn't help you, but it might be best to see a certified EZGO repair shop for this one...

[scottyb]

ELECTRONIC SPEED CONTROL - DCS

ALWAYS DISCONNECT NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE BEFORE REMOVING CONTROLLER COVER. RE-CONNECT CABLE AFTER COVER IS REMOVED.
These test are to be conducted after making sure all wires and connections are clean and tight.
JACK UP REAR WHEELS or otherwise secure the rear end up off of the ground.
Connect (-) probe of meter on Battery Pack Negative (-) post.
Connect (+) probe to the Battery Pack Positive (+) post. (This reading is the Battery Voltage)
Connect (+) probe to the battery side of the solenoid's large stud.
The same voltage should be present. If not, inspect all solenoid and battery cables.
DISCONNECT battery bl(+) wire and unplug the "Run,Tow/Maintenance switch.
Perform a continuity test on wires 1 and 2, 3 and 4 TO THE CONTROLLER
Turn the key switch ON and place the gear selector in Forward.
Connect (-) probe of meter to Battery Pack Negative (-) post. (This probe will remain on the post for the rest of the testing procedures)
Place the (+) probe on the battery side of the solenoid's large post (If the reading is below battery voltage, check all wiring and terminals).
Place the (+) probe to the controller side of the solenoid's large post. The reading should be 0.1 to 3 volts less than battery voltage.
If the reading is more than 3 volts less the battery voltage, the resistor is faulty.
If the voltage is the same as the battery voltage, replace the solenoid.

INDUCTIVE THROTTLE SENSOR key switch -Forward direction - Accelerator pedal pushed JUST to solenoid activation.

AT THE TEN PIN CONNECTOR OF THE CONTROLLER
Place the (+) probe on the red wire terminal of the connector.
If battery voltage is not present, the red wire between the Run-Tow/Maintenance Switch and the Ten Pin Connector is faulty.
Place the (+) probe on the black wire terminal of the connector. The reading should be slightly above 14 volts but LESS than 16 volts.
If the voltage is below 14 volts, the Throttle Sensor MAY be faulty. Above 16 volts, the controller MAY be faulty.
Separate the (6) six pin connector (only 4 are used) between the pedal box and the controller. If the voltage goes to 14-16 volts, the sensor is faulty.
If the voltage remains below 14 or above 16 volts, the controller is faulty.
RECONNECT the (6) six pin connector.
Place the (+) probe on the white wire terminal of the six pin connector. Depress the pedal slowly. The reading should be 0.45 - 0.53 volts just as the micro-switch is activated.
Depress the pedal slowly to full throttle. The reading should move smoothly to about 1.5 volts.
If the reading is incorrect, The Throttle Sensor is defective.

[Paul Duclos]

How to connect a AZ-GO Controlor without problem. Thank

Paul

[Paul Duclos]

Originally Posted by Paul Duclos

How to connect a AZ-GO Controlor without problem. Thank

Paul