Starter relay/solenoid question - 3PG marathon

[cart around]

Put your FnR switch to forward.

Get jumper cables.

Jump from battery positive to starter F2

Battery negative to A1.

That should make the starter spin. If it doesn't, I would check brushes and load test battery.

[Silver2000Limited]

Originally Posted by cart around

Put your FnR switch to forward.

Get jumper cables.

Jump from battery positive to starter F2

Battery negative to A1.

That should make the starter spin. If it doesn't, I would check brushes and load test battery.

Just did this and it cranked very well! This is the first time I've heard this!!

[cart around]

Not the battery, starter, or FnR switch.

Now it's a process of elimination of where the bad connection is. I'm going to work.

[Silver2000Limited]

Seems like I am able to jump the solenoid now without issue. So I'm guessing adding grounds helped. Also, the chassis ground is questionable at best so I'm going to run a couple more. Now to get a solenoid for this thing! Any word of a local continuous duty solenoid or must I order it?

[Silver2000Limited]

I found a snowblower relay at Oreilly that's rated for 150 continuous amps. I won't say physical fitment is perfect, but it works nonetheless.

Mixed up 4oz of 2 stroke oil to 4 gallons of 89 octane, filled the tank only to find a leak. Fixed that. Have been riding the cart around quite a bit tonight.

I did notice that the exhaust is smoking pretty badly when it's warm. I'm guessing i need to log some hard hours to burn off the residual oil inside the muffler. My mixture being 128:1 (which seems insane to me by the way) cannot be the cause of smoke.

[wheelbarrow01]

Hi guys,

Long time lurker, first time poster. I think I have a similar solenoid issue. My cart used to work fine but then one day a few years ago it started smoking (like an electrical fire) so I quickly stopped and disconnected the battery. This was at my holiday home so the cart sat there for a long time.
I've finally trailered it back home where I have the tools and time to diagnose.
Looking at it today, I connected a fresh battery but there is no power at all (but the back up alarm works when shifted into reverse. I can see that the plastic insulation on the positive battery terminal of the solenoid has melted with burn marks, and there is a lot of corrosion on that terminal.

I have removed the solenoid and connected it directly to the battery via jumper cables, and tried to jumper across the solenoid itself but it seems dead - I also used a test light to confirm no power across the solenoid.

I am all very new to this so not sure precisely what to do, but it sounds like my solenoid is probably dead.

I am in New Zealand so parts can be a little harder to source here, but I found a link to a local store selling a 12V 150A continuous golf cart solenoid. It actually looks visually identical to the one I have - should I give it a go?

Here are the listed specs:
New Solenoid Relay Switch 67-702
12 Volt, 4-Terminal
Used for Golf Carts , Industrial Applications where Solenoid is to be engaged for extended periods of time
Replaces for Cole Hersee 24059, Delco 1114208, 218, 223, 534, 547,Prestolite 15-88, 15-132, 15-133, 15-236, 15-311, 15-316, SAS-4201, SAS-4202, SAS-4213, SAS-5201A,SAS-5203, A,
Amp Rating: 90 Continuous Duty, 150 In Rush

I am a brand new member so can't post a link to the listing, but as I say it looks identical to the solenoid that I have.

[cart around]

The one being sold in this link for all 12 volt golf carts is only rated for 80 continuous amps, so I would say that you would be ok with the solenoid that you found. https://www.vintagegolfcartparts.com/Item/HD_Solenoid2

What year is your cart? 2PG or 3PG?

You should be able to jump directly from your battery positive to F2 of the starter to make sure it still turns.

Since the reverse buzzer works, your fuse should still be good. Check the small wire that you disconnected from the solenoid for power while stepping on the pedal. That will check the start circuit. The other small wire should go to ground.

This is a 3PG wiring diagram. Ignore the HEI conversion stuff. https://buggiesgonewild.com/attachme...7&d=1323224205

[wheelbarrow02]

Originally Posted by cart around

The one being sold in this link for all 12 volt golf carts is only rated for 80 continuous amps, so I would say that you would be ok with the solenoid that you found.

What year is your cart? 2PG or 3PG?

You should be able to jump directly from your battery positive to F2 of the starter to make sure it still turns.

Since the reverse buzzer works, your fuse should still be good. Check the small wire that you disconnected from the solenoid for power while stepping on the pedal. That will check the start circuit. The other small wire should go to ground.

This is a 3PG wiring diagram. Ignore the HEI conversion stuff.

Hey mate, sorry it took so long to reply - I got banned under the "wheelbarrow01" username - it's not really clear why as all I did was post the above questions which you replied to... but for some reason, instant lifetime ban

Anyway, to answer your questions, I have a 1991 3PG.
I can confirm that if I run a jumper wire from battery positive to the big wire off the solenoid that goes to the starter, the starter/generator turns over. As I mentioned in my previous post, the original solenoid was burnt and started smoking the last time I drove the cart a couple of years ago. I have just bought and installed a replacement 12v solenoid from Amazon which was recommended for my cart, but the cart still wont turn over under normal conditions. I have started tracing all the wires to work out any bad ones but haven't found any yet. The ignition key is getting power as it should.

The fuse is good - although it's only a 10 amp and I think it needs to be either 15 or 25 amp?

I ran out of daylight today but I got as far as testing the FnR micro switch and that appears to be working fine (has power across it when put in forward or reverse, no power when in neutral as expected). Tomorrow I will test the accelerator micro switch - I suspect it will be bad but I don't know at this point.

The main battery wires (positive and earth) were pretty old and in rough shape so I have just replaced both with quality thick insulated car battery cable with new terminals, and I cleaned the grounding surface while I was at it - just to rule out any of that being part of the problem. I also cleaned many of the existing ring connectors (to solenoid, ground etc) to ensure dirt is not an issue. The battery is near new out of my 4Runner - just using it for testing purposes.

If the accelerator micro switch tests good, where do I go from there? Ignition coil? Voltage regulator?

[cart around]

Neither the voltage regulator nor the coil would cause the solenoid to not work.

You have already made the starter turn by bypassing the solenoid. There are only two choices. Bad solenoid or power not getting to the solenoid. You have power to the first micro switch. Continue the run. See if you are losing power to the small terminal of the solenoid. You could have also lost ground to the other small terminal.

[spriddle]

Originally Posted by wheelbarrow02

Hey mate, sorry it took so long to reply - I got banned under the "wheelbarrow01" username - it's not really clear why as all I did was post the above questions which you replied to... but for some reason, instant lifetime ban

Anyway, to answer your questions, I have a 1991 3PG.
I can confirm that if I run a jumper wire from battery positive to the big wire off the solenoid that goes to the starter, the starter/generator turns over. As I mentioned in my previous post, the original solenoid was burnt and started smoking the last time I drove the cart a couple of years ago. I have just bought and installed a replacement 12v solenoid from Amazon which was recommended for my cart, but the cart still wont turn over under normal conditions. I have started tracing all the wires to work out any bad ones but haven't found any yet. The ignition key is getting power as it should.

The fuse is good - although it's only a 10 amp and I think it needs to be either 15 or 25 amp?

I ran out of daylight today but I got as far as testing the FnR micro switch and that appears to be working fine (has power across it when put in forward or reverse, no power when in neutral as expected). Tomorrow I will test the accelerator micro switch - I suspect it will be bad but I don't know at this point.

The main battery wires (positive and earth) were pretty old and in rough shape so I have just replaced both with quality thick insulated car battery cable with new terminals, and I cleaned the grounding surface while I was at it - just to rule out any of that being part of the problem. I also cleaned many of the existing ring connectors (to solenoid, ground etc) to ensure dirt is not an issue. The battery is near new out of my 4Runner - just using it for testing purposes.

If the accelerator micro switch tests good, where do I go from there? Ignition coil? Voltage regulator?

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