Starter relay/solenoid question - 3PG marathon

[Silver2000Limited]

Hey guys, so uhhhh I bought ANOTHER marathon this morning, 1989, with 3PG engine. No crank no start. Spent this morning cleaning corroded connections. Best I was able to do is get the starter relay/solenoid to rapidly click if I hit it with a hammer while depressing gas pedal. Also, even when I jump the solenoid with jumper cables, the S/G motor does not spin (still need to add dedicated ground).

I just recently learned about a "continuous duty" relay. The one on my cart is aftermarket and there's a good chance it's is simply just a normal ford relay or something. What are the potential failures of using a standard style relay/solenoid? My assumption is that you'll easily burn up the relay itself, but do I risk toasting the S/G motor? My guess is both are now trashed from using the wrong start relay/solenoid to begin with.

I plan to swap in a spare from my functional cart but really dislike taking apart functional carts. Anyway, is there any way to get a new proper relay/solenoid for this cart TODAY? Wondering if there's a specific part number that parts stores might carry. Thanks in advance.

Also, might be in need of a hitachi S/G shipped to 63385. Need to get this cart running and gone. Thanks guys!

[cart around]

Where are you connecting the cables when you jump it?

[Silver2000Limited]

Originally Posted by cart around

Where are you connecting the cables when you jump it?

I've tried from battery positive to load side of solenoid, and I've also tried from large solenoid lug to other large solenoid lug. No change. I even went from battery positive to A2 on the S/G (where it would normally be energized when solenoid engages.....or so I thought)

I also just changed out the S/G with a known good and still no worky:(

Lastly, I just found out that A1 and A2 may have been reversed on this cart. Quick backstory, my other 2PG marathon I recently bought had a very healthy crank no start (needs rebuild) and I was able to watch the motor spin in forward and reverse when each option is selected. So the blown up cart has a known good S/G I used, and I swapped A1 and A2 on the 3PG cart to match the (known good) 2PG wiring, and I'm still getting nothing. Even after making the wiring the same, I cannot get the 3PG cart to spin over the S/G motor.

What sort of failures can the FnR switch have? I pulled it off and contacts look great. I also cleaned all 4 ring terminals thoroughly. At my wits end here. I apologize if this rant is confusing, if I need to clarify something please let me know.

[Silver2000Limited]

Oh and here is my ground setup currently: Bottom lug on FnR switch goes to a clean chassis ground. Negative battery cable goes from battery negative to a bolt on the engine block. So as far as I can see there is no dedicated ground on the S/G (unless it's only done through the FnR switch). There is also no dedicated connection between engine and S/G.

I have not swapped solenoids yet but I don't see how that could make a difference since I jumped the solenoid already to no avail. Realllly hoping I didn't fry the 2PG S/G motor. It was a healthy one.

[cart around]

Normally battery negative connects to the frame. Bottom lug "C" of the FnR switch also connects to the same point on the frame, and then another large cable or strap connects the engine to the frame.

What is the condition of your battery? 12.75 volts is fully charged. Showing just 12 volts is not good.

You should also load test the battery.
Put your meter on the battery lugs and step on the pedal. If battery voltage drops to 9.6 volts or less, the battery failed a load test. In reality it should only drop a single volt.

You should also check the brushes in the starter. Maybe they are short, or dirty.

I don't see a bad solenoid burning up a starter. It just doesn't work that way.

[Silver2000Limited]

Starting to wonder if my battery cables themselves are bad.

How can I manually jump the S/G to test for functionality? I pulled it from a 'running' cart 2 days ago so I can't imagine it's bad now.

I also verified 12v signal going to solenoid with key on and pedal pushed down. So it want's to engage the solenoid but I still believe it to be bad.

Really would just like to hear the engine spin over so I can check for spark. Any other last things that would cause a S/G to not spin? Battery is good. Over 12.5v and brand new.

Also, when looking at the FnR switch from where the engine sits...Top lug is going to F1. Left lug is going to A1, right lug is going to A2, are these backwards? I have tried both ways and no change. Then the bottom lug is going to chassis ground.

[cart around]

You need that 3rd ground cable

Let me get off my phone and back on the computer. We will go over all of the wiring.

[Silver2000Limited]

Originally Posted by cart around

You need that 3rd ground cable

Let me get off my phone and back on the computer. We will go over all of the wiring.

Can't express my appreciation enough.

I need to probably take a trip to walmart or oreilly auto and grab a couple ground cables. For what it's worth though, I makeshift a ground via some jumped cables, but this is less than ideal.

[cart around]

Open this diagram or print it. https://buggiesgonewild.com/attachme...7&d=1323224205

From battery positive to solenoid B. Sometimes there is hidden corrosion in this cable.

From solenoid A to F2 on starter.

The FnR switch is viewed from the rear. Clockwise A B C D. C is at the bottom and is ground.
A to f1 of starter.
B to a2 of starter
C to frame
D to a1 of starter

As I said before you also need frame to engine, and frame to battery.
Double check these connections and let me know.
I leave for work at 8PM.

[Silver2000Limited]

I just verified all of that. My connections are clean, tight, and correct. I added another ground where it needed to be. Still no change. This is an odd one.