Have I bit off more than I can chew?

[scottyb]

Try the wet sanding too. It is 10 times smoother Paint can be fun but it is an art... the rest of us just play with it

[dougmcp]

I'm a little late here but I'll post up anyway.
A color change is a difficult procedure and if it is not done correctly if will have an uneven look. When changing from white to red, it is advisable to use a red oxide primer to eliminate the white before applying the red base coat.
I assume you are using rattle cans for this project. If that is true, the amount of paint pigment dispensed from rattle cans is small and multiple coats (5-6) is about the only way you will get enough paint on to cover. This has to be laid on until it is wet looking without running and the difference between the 2 is close. To avoid the banding look apply the paint in 2 different directions. If you're using candy colored paint it has even less pigment and will require even more coats.
If you are using a gun, you can probably do this with 3-4 coats.
After the base coat is done, wet sand with 600 (eliminates orange peel), then 1000, then 2000.
Allow the paint to dry for a few days and apply 3 coats of clear, wet sand 1000 and 2000 then buff to perfection.

[scottyb]

Thanks for the simple expert advice

[SpoiledRotten]

Originally Posted by dougmcp

I'm a little late here but I'll post up anyway.
A color change is a difficult procedure and if it is not done correctly if will have an uneven look. When changing from white to red, it is advisable to use a red oxide primer to eliminate the white before applying the red base coat.
I assume you are using rattle cans for this project. If that is true, the amount of paint pigment dispensed from rattle cans is small and multiple coats (5-6) is about the only way you will get enough paint on to cover. This has to be laid on until it is wet looking without running and the difference between the 2 is close. To avoid the banding look apply the paint in 2 different directions. If you're using candy colored paint it has even less pigment and will require even more coats.
If you are using a gun, you can probably do this with 3-4 coats.
After the base coat is done, wet sand with 600 (eliminates orange peel), then 1000, then 2000.
Allow the paint to dry for a few days and apply 3 coats of clear, wet sand 1000 and 2000 then buff to perfection.

Thanks for the advice, Doug. I am using the rattle can technique. I'm using Duplicolor with lots of very light coats at a time, sanding between coats. I knew I was getting closer to uniform coverage with each coat, just not there yet. Maybe I'm using too light of a coat with each round. Not sure. The drying time between coats is about 5 minutes. I'm sanding pretty good between each coat with that 1000 paper. I'm a little more encouraged though, knowing it will just take time and a little more paint. It's actually taking better shape than I thought, since I was probably seeing through the eyes of panic, rather than reason. I'm definitely going to do the rear panel different (removed from the frame) plus good coats of primer to cover that white good. Maybe I can get by with fewer coats. I must have been figuring that the Bull Dog was the same as primer, but then, I was a little disheartened when I looked in my shopping bag from O'Rielly and found those cans of filler primer, so I must have been trying to remember too many instructions previously read. I knew I was forgetting something though.

[dougmcp]

IMHO sanding between coats is overrated. If body shops sanded after every layer, the paint job would take 3x as long and cost a fortune.
If you are having problems with the paint not being smooth enough after spraying, it's not heavy enough in the beginning. If you're only 5 minutes between coats, I would lay it on a little heavier without running and not sand between coats. The stuff has to look wet when applying not just colored. The final coat gets wet sanded to get rid of the orange peel and then the clear coat goes on.
In the end, wet sanding and buffing will cover a multitude of sins.
Don't sweat the small stuff and take your time. Remember, only you will see where you think you messed up, everyone else will be wowed.

[scottyb]

A new terminology has forever entered my vocabulary. I like it ...

Originally Posted by SpoiledRotten

Thanks for the advice, Doug. I am using the rattle can technique. I'm using Duplicolor with lots of very light coats at a time, sanding between coats. I knew I was getting closer to uniform coverage with each coat, just not there yet. Maybe I'm using too light of a coat with each round. Not sure. The drying time between coats is about 5 minutes. I'm sanding pretty good between each coat with that 1000 paper. I'm a little more encouraged though, knowing it will just take time and a little more paint. It's actually taking better shape than I thought, since I was probably seeing through the eyes of panic, rather than reason. I'm definitely going to do the rear panel different (removed from the frame) plus good coats of primer to cover that white good. Maybe I can get by with fewer coats. I must have been figuring that the Bull Dog was the same as primer, but then, I was a little disheartened when I looked in my shopping bag from O'Rielly and found those cans of filler primer, so I must have been trying to remember too many instructions previously read. I knew I was forgetting something though.

And words of wisdom about anything you create .......

Originally Posted by dougmcp

IMHO sanding between coats is overrated. If body shops sanded after every layer, the paint job would take 3x as long and cost a fortune.
If you are having problems with the paint not being smooth enough after spraying, it's not heavy enough in the beginning. If you're only 5 minutes between coats, I would lay it on a little heavier without running and not sand between coats. The stuff has to look wet when applying not just colored. The final coat gets wet sanded to get rid of the orange peel and then the clear coat goes on.
In the end, wet sanding and buffing will cover a multitude of sins.
Don't sweat the small stuff and take your time. Remember, only you will see where you think you messed up, everyone else will be wowed.

[SpoiledRotten]

Originally Posted by dougmcp

If you are having problems with the paint not being smooth enough after spraying, it's not heavy enough in the beginning. If you're only 5 minutes between coats, I would lay it on a little heavier without running and not sand between coats.

THAT must be my problem! I'm trying to take what people say too literally. I've read so many post where people say several light coats are better than the thick coat. I must be taking that statement to the extreme. If it doesn't look better after a little sanding this afternoon, I'll lay it on a little thicker and move on. I'm a little more encouraged now. Thanks, yet again, Doug. You are the man!

[dougmcp]

Try a practice run on some other piece of material.
Be careful, the horizontal surfaces can take quite a bit but the vertical surfaces will sag or run if you get it too heavy.
You should be able to tell if you're getting enough on, it will be glossy.

[SpoiledRotten]

Originally Posted by dougmcp

Try a practice run on some other piece of material.
Be careful, the horizontal surfaces can take quite a bit but the vertical surfaces will sag or run if you get it too heavy.
You should be able to tell if you're getting enough on, it will be glossy.

My "light" coats go on hazy and rough, so they don't brighten up some until I sand them with the 1000. Putting it on that light is probably doing nothing but wasting paint. Most of the paint is probably blowing away. My Ford PSD might be "cherry red" when I get through with my cart.

[mikesmotortoys]

You have to put down a solid 'wet' coat. "Dusting" the paint will never finish the job. Have you bit off more than you can chew? Maybe not, just put some paint down between sanding!!!

My advise would be to never paint a cart with the body on. You should have started with a good primer / sealer. If you plan on doing that to the rear body, then STOP with the front cowl and start over. Your base (whether white paint on the front and primer on the rear) will result in two ending shades...