2008 EZGO RXV 48V Performance Issues.

[Threeput]

What charger are you using?...and how do you know the batteries are fully charged?
my first thought was the batteries are not fully charged

[Threeput]

To get the year when the battery was manufactured by the stamping on the posts...example 5G
The code is....number represents the last number of the year....example if it is 5..then the battery was made 2015
next is a letter from A to L...if it is G then using the alphabet G is the 7th letter...so that represents the 7th month..July
So battery was made July 2015
Confusing

[kernal]

Originally Posted by Threeput

To get the year when the battery was manufactured by the stamping on the posts...example 5G
The code is....number represents the last number of the year....example if it is 5..then the battery was made 2015
next is a letter from A to L...if it is G then using the alphabet G is the 7th letter...so that represents the 7th month..July
So battery was made July 2015
Confusing

Crown doesn't do it that way or at least they didn't. My Crowns and others I've seen have a long code engraved on the case and nothing stamped on the posts.

Also, I just bought new Trojan T875s end of Feb. They are not stamped on the post like Trojan used to do either. They still use the same code system but the code is applied to the case in little yellow alphanumeric's. looks like paint or some kind of ink. Small and will be easy to cover up with dirt or wires etc. I don't like it. Trojan was sold a couple of years ago. They are on double secret probation with me.

[Hschloss62]

Originally Posted by Threeput

To get the year when the battery was manufactured by the stamping on the posts...example 5G
The code is....number represents the last number of the year....example if it is 5..then the battery was made 2015
next is a letter from A to L...if it is G then using the alphabet G is the 7th letter...so that represents the 7th month..July
So battery was made July 2015
Confusing

There is a sticker on each battery that shows C1 (March 2021).

The battery supplier is one that our company uses for a variety of business uses, and they have been solid in providing us quality batteries, So I would be surprised if they sold me a dud.

[Hschloss62]

So I charged the batteries for 24 hours. Took the charger off and let them sit for 17 hours and was getting a reading of 51.08v. By no means am I an expert on the matter, but everything leads me to believe the batteries are in good shape, but that something (worn part/outside temperature) is causing them to drain down quicker than they should. Obviously I am coming to the board looking for help/suggestions, but it seems like the batteries are fine.

I took a look at the motor brake, and it does not appear to be the type with a handle on it. I didnt completely take it off, so it could still be going bad, but at least i know it isnt the type with a handle.

[Shoalcreek]

Break the three 10 mil bolts loose on the brake. It is supposed to be torqued to just about 5 ft lbs or so. You put two fingers on the ratchet and pull just a little. If its dragging a little that will kill your batteries

[Hschloss62]

I wanted to refresh this thread and provide an update:

Now that we are in the summer and battery temperature isn't an issue, I feel like I can rule out cold batteries as the reason for under performance. Right now, my golf cart will last at least 18 holes, with maybe a few more after that to spare, but nothing like I would expect them to last.

After a full charge, the batteries are showing a charge of right around 51.10 (I bought these batteries in the spring).

Over the winter I added a 3" lift kit and larger wheels (20.5"). Is there any chance this lift kit + bigger wheels is drawing more amps from the motor, leading to the batteries draining faster? Essentially, if i replace the existing stock motor/controller with a more substantial one, should I expect more efficient battery consumption

[kernal]

The lift has no affect on range/performance. Larger tires can affect both in that they can be heavier and they change the final drive ratio to a "taller" gear (numerically smaller). Means the cart will go faster than it did as long as the motor/batteries have the power to support it. As long as the tires are not the low pressure type this modification has not historically resulted in significant changes in range all else being equal. My personal experience is an RXV with 20.5 inch tires on 14' rims but they are the low profile street tires. No lift required. This didn't affect my range per charge at all as long as the cart was driven as before.
The RXV motors have proven to be pretty reliable. There is no upgrade available I'm aware of and the stock motors can push the carts into the 30's with proper tuning (Curtis models 2012.5 and newer).
A 2008 will have a Danaher controller. These are not available anymore and if they have problems will have to be changed to something else. However as long as they are working normally there is no downside and with the larger tires will push the cart into the low 20s with "freedom" mode enabled. There are hundreds of these where I am all going just fine. The options for you are a conversion to a Curtis controller or a Navitas. The Navitas is plug n play supposedly and offers user tuning through an app. But it isn't any more efficient than the Danaher you have or the Curtis models.
I am at a loss as to your problem. I have a digital gage on my cart also and your numbers look similar to mine except a little low on the acceleration but I have 8v batteries with more capacity. Only thing I can think of is to jack up the front and spin the front wheels confirming that they spin freely or maybe re torking the the 3 bolts on the motor brake as suggested.