EZGO TXT solenoid just clicks won't move with all new parts

[Bldg212]

99 EZGO TXT 36v Series cart. Cart just stopped. Now clicks in solenoid and doesn't move.
Has all new parts on. Alltrax SR48600, SW200 solenoid, micro switches for F/R, micro for pedal, IT sensor and had the motor cleaned. Batteries are 1yr old with 2AWG cables for batteries and motor.
Not sure if i rewired something wrong or what. It did have stock Curtis controller and SW181 solenoid and 6awg cables going to motor and controller.

[crash12888]

You've replaced all of these parts and drove it how long before it stopped?
What is your pack voltage?
Do you have voltage on the output side of the solenoid when it is energized and clicks?

[Bldg212]

I went to load it on trailer other day and had nothing. i was going to upgrade it to 48v with the Alltrax so fig I'd swap everything and try it at 36v before I go to 48v.
Pack voltage is 38.3
With key turned on (neg on battery and pos to each)
Both sides of solenoid are 38.2
with pedal pressed sololenoid clicks, Alltrax flashes 4 green then solid green
same both sides 38.2 and diode shows 38.2

[Ryokuro]

Those 4 flashes just indicate the throttle type, which is EZGo ITS in your case, and is the correct one.

Have you gone over your wiring to make sure everything is right?
https://alltraxinc.com/wp-content/up...T-Wire-Dia.pdf

[JohnnieB]

Connect your DVM between the controller's B- and M- terminals.

When the pedal is pushed just far enough to make the solenoid click, you should be full battery pack voltage (38.2V) and as you slowly push the pedal to the floor, the voltage ought to smoothly decrease to 0V.

If you don't get full pack voltage when the solenoid clicks, the is an open in the high amp cables, connections or contacts. The F/R contacts are the most likely suspects.

The thick lines on the attached schematic are the high amps cables.

[Bldg212]

I just looked at the wiring diagram for the controller and realized i had the A1 and A2 backwards. had A1 going to M- (as it was on the stock Curtis controller, labeled everything as I disconnected). Now I get nothing, not even the click in the solenoid.
With test I get same as above 38.2 on both sides of solenoid but nothing on diode this time.

[Bldg212]

nothing between B- and M- when pedal is pushed

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by Bldg212

I just looked at the wiring diagram for the controller and realized i had the A1 and A2 backwards. had A1 going to M- (as it was on the stock Curtis controller, labeled everything as I disconnected). Now I get nothing, not even the click in the solenoid.
With test I get same as above 38.2 on both sides of solenoid but nothing on diode this time.

Earlier versions of that Alltrax SR schematic had M- connected to A1 like it is on the stock schematic. Not sure why Alltrax changed it.

Originally Posted by Bldg212

nothing between B- and M- when pedal is pushed

Take the red (positive) test lead from M- and go searching for it. First place to look is are the studs on the F/R switch.

[Bldg212]

Me neither. Now it doesn't do anything. Also I have seen S1 and S2 cables are switched as well. Any idea what I'm doing wrong? The electrical part I didn't change was the key switch. I did use the 36v resistor and diode from the SW181 I had before. How do I test the resistor and which wiring diagram should I go with.

[JohnnieB]

Pick one and stick with it.

There are more than one way to wire the F/R switch that works.

The only constraint is the direction the cart moves and when the beeper sounds should be consistent with the marking for the direction selector lever.

The cart should run normally with or without the resistor or diode. The resistor protects the solenoid contacts from arcing as much on closure and the diode protects the pedal switch contacts from as much arcing on opening, so they should be installed once the cart is running.