Used 36V Medalist, looking for advice

[scottyb]

The rotary switch cam contains 50% of the F&R contacts. After about 10 years of use the stationary 50% of the contacts are worn and best results are achieved by replacing the whole unit

[bronsonj]

But..... You may never need 48v. I'm not poo pooing 48v. I have 48v in my TXT and I enjoy being faster than my 36v buds...

If you are lucky and are looking for the least $ possible, here is what I did.

I went to Advance Auto Parts. Any battery past 5 months old (or maybe it was 6, can't remember) can not be sold as new. The employee told me it was corporate policy. Once they realize they have a battery past the 5 (or 6) month threshold they remove the label move it to the back of the store, out of the showroom. If you know to ask about them they may have a set for you there. $47.50 per battery regardless of type and size. I picked up a marine deep cycle 12v and six 8V golf cart batteries for my 48v cart. $47.50 each with a 30 day warranty.

The employee told me they go in spurts. He may have 30 batteries of various types today and have only 3 the next day. But for under $300 for six deep cycle golf cart batteries, it'll be worth making a phone call. Again, I was lucky. They may have none. But a phone call is cheap...

Either way, remember with your new battery pack (36 or 48v) if it's parked it's plugged in. That'll help your batteries in the long run. Good luck!

[Josh61513]

So....I gave scott a call and I guess I'm going 'all out'! LOL. Ordered package #485-SPM-48500 (500 amp controller) with a 400 amp HD solenoid and HD F/R switch. Found a good price on a 48 volt DPI charger with the EZGO connector online, and picked up 8V Trojan T-875s near Grand Rapids for $100 each. Also bought a flip seat, golf bag retainer, and hitch while I was there Plan to make up my own 2 gauge cables. Everything should be in this weekend, just need to find some time! The battery tray is pretty covered in battery acid goo, will need to clean that up as well. Wish me luck!

[mgray70]

👍👍 You will love that SPM!

[Josh61513]

After getting it all together (SPM 48500 controller, 2 gauge cables, HD F/R switch, HD solenoid, and 6 new 8 volt batteries) the cart ran great! 15-20 mph on flat/slight downhill and ~8 mph up medium grades. GREAT torque off the line. Ran great for a couple weeks but when I recently went to demo it to a friend it let me down. Wouldn't move, zero response.

When I press the pedal lightly the solenoid clicks like it's supposed to, but the SPX light doesn't even turn on no matter how hard I press the pedal in forward or reverse. Does this sound like a throttle sensor issue or an issue with the controller itself? How are you supposed to diagnose the throttle sensor?

Thanks!
Josh

[mgray70]

I would check the wire from the ITS to the controller, and all the connections.. Especially the 4 pin Molex connector.

[Josh61513]

I disconnected and re-connected that 4-pin molex connector (not easy to do!), and the wide thin connector right at the controller. No change.

Are there voltages at the connector at the controller I can look for? Seems to be either a pedal sensor problem or controller problem.

Thanks,
Josh

[mgray70]

It is either a throttle issue or power to the controller issue. If I remember correct there is a red wire that comes from the solenoid to one of the pins on the controller that actually energizes the controller. By the lights not coming on at all makes me think it's not getting power. May need to call Scottyb for a little advice.

[Josh61513]

I did verify this weekend that the red wire from the solenoid is carrying pack voltage (or close, ~50V I believe) to the harness on the controller. I'm assuming the black wire is ground? I have 50V between the small red and black wires on the harness, shouldn't the controller be turning on??

[Josh61513]

I made a separate post about this, per ScottyB's suggestion: http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/showt...errerid=109167