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Electric EZGO Electric EZ GO Marathon, Medalist, TXT and RXV. |
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05-11-2021, 09:04 AM | #1 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Aug 2020
Posts: 27
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Past Due, But . . . Thanks Signal_Engineer et al!
I bought a converter/reducer with the key switch wire. I spliced the key switch wire and the positive input to a single wire. Then, I spliced that wire and the positive battery meter wire. I used posi-locks because they make it easier to upgrade or change later. They also make it easier to undo mistakes!
The whole set-up works perfectly. I can drive without running the accessories or run accessories without driving. The converter outputs run to a fuse block, both under the seat. The fuse block under the seat goes to terminal blocks that are in the dash. The terminal blocks, I use for smaller amp accessories. Larger amp drawing accessories are wired directly to the fuse block. I had to do a lot of labeling, but it makes the length and number of wire cables more manageble. I have lots of other improvements I need to make, but I wanted to say thanks for the help with that bit. So . . . Thanks! |
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05-11-2021, 07:17 PM | #2 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Md.
Posts: 1,059
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Re: Past Due, But . . . Thanks Signal_Engineer et al!
Good job
You won’t regret using fuse block along with eliminated battery drain when cart not in use with key switch connection.👍 FYI, please put a few wraps of electrical tape around the “posi locks”. I have seen the “flap” open up on them and cause a short frying wiring on a few jobs. Personally use crimp/ stay con connectors with shrink wrap but both methods work😊 |
05-12-2021, 11:09 AM | #3 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Aug 2020
Posts: 27
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Re: Past Due, But . . . Thanks Signal_Engineer et al!
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