Anyone ever Squeeze 25's onto a G22?

[Daubers]

I have 6" LT so plenty of room in the front but but sure what would need done to not rub in the rear. Has anyone squeezed these on?

[slonomo]

Maybe if your lift kit has a drop bracket for the swingarm. The issue with most lift kits is the rear axle usually moves toward the front, which moves the wheels forward in the wheel well opening, making clearance issues with the rocker panel area. Dropping the front of the swingarm will help correct the angle of the swingarm and moves the wheel back toward the rear. The goal is to have your wheel centered in the wheel well.

[Daubers]

It does not, as it is the Jakes kit but now I am wondering what it would take to fab something up. I am not against cutting, grinding and welding up what I have to. Was told I couldn't for 37s on my 2500HD either lol

Do you happen to know if any kits that do move it back to it's natural location that I could look at?

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

[Daubers]

I can't be the only one who has gone down the road of 25's on a G22! I found a set of 6 brand new UTV 25" tires locally for $200, really tempted to jump on it.

[crash12888]

I did 25s on a G16 and did the exact same drop down slonomo mentioned.
I cut the front mount straight down just behind the frame tube and welded a 4" wide by 6" 3/8" plate in the middle which dropped the mounting flange 4".
The rear lift was 6" so it was only a 2" drop from factory angle.
It centered the wheels and leveled the engine to an acceptable angle.
We dropped the front a full 6" and moved the assembly forward 3" for clearance.
Also added 2" spacer blocks between the spindles and steering arms the tierod attaches to.

[Daubers]

Originally Posted by crash12888

I did 25s on a G16 and did the exact same drop down slonomo mentioned.
I cut the front mount straight down just behind the frame tube and welded a 4" wide by 6" 3/8" plate in the middle which dropped the mounting flange 4".
The rear lift was 6" so it was only a 2" drop from factory angle.
It centered the wheels and leveled the engine to an acceptable angle.
We dropped the front a full 6" and moved the assembly forward 3" for clearance.
Also added 2" spacer blocks between the spindles and steering arms the tierod attaches to.

Do you happen to have any pictures of the rear? With the Jakes LT on the front I won't have any issues there, and am ordering some Fox Podium shocks for it, the only issue will be the front. My rear shocks are off a Pioneer 1000 and are plenty heavy duty, but again, like you said, its just the front of the rear fender wells.

[crash12888]

No pics handy but here's a quick drawing.
You could also change the angle of the drop plate to adjust wheel well clearance

mount.jpg

[Daubers]

Originally Posted by crash12888

No pics handy but here's a quick drawing.
You could also change the angle of the drop plate to adjust wheel well clearance

Attachment 219566

Thanks Crash. I don't have my cart in front of me to look at it, its up at my camp, so just deciding if I should jump on the deal for the 25's

[crash12888]

Originally Posted by Daubers

Thanks Crash. I don't have my cart in front of me to look at it, its up at my camp, so just deciding if I should jump on the deal for the 25's

You can never go to big!!! JUMP JUMP!!!
And while you are at it, pull your motor up and redrill the mounting holes in the plate 1/2" forward, that is the same as putting a 1" shorter belt on it.
Does wonders for your low end take off torque.
The belt starts pulling lower in the drive clutch and acts like an old ford granny gear.

[Daubers]

Originally Posted by crash12888

You can never go to big!!! JUMP JUMP!!!
And while you are at it, pull your motor up and redrill the mounting holes in the plate 1/2" forward, that is the same as putting a 1" shorter belt on it.
Does wonders for your low end take off torque.
The belt starts pulling lower in the drive clutch and acts like an old ford granny gear.

Would that little hack work on my 460? Doesn't seem to be much slack in the belt at all