OBC for lithium Carts

[cramermy]

I have a 4 wire 30 amp converter to install. Can I come off the solenoid for the 48+ supply so that the converter and my fuse box are only on when the cart is in run mode and the key switch is ON?

[WalterM6]

No connected to one side it would be on all the time and connected to the other side it would only be on when moving.

[cramermy]

Oh right. That makes sense it would only work when the cart is moving.

So based on some of the other threads I have read, I should be wiring to the "On" switched terminal using a relay. Any guidance on type of relay to use? I think I need a normally open 48V relay that can handle 30+ amps?

[WalterM6]

https://www.amazon.com/Potter-Brumfi...9812845&sr=8-7

[cramermy]

[oldbeefcake]

What about the negative right next to the pliers?

[oldbeefcake]

Originally Posted by Sergio

That 10ga black wire with a Yellow bullet connector is the negative for your converter/accessories.

Sergio, please let me know if you can help me troubleshoot. I tried to hook up the converter and touch the blue wire on the key ignition by accident and now the cart is dead. No reverse buzzer or power. I tried to jump the key switch and still nothing. I think I narrow down the issue with the fuse per the wiring diagram but don't know where it is located on the cart. Or could it be my solenoid is fried?

[Sergio]

You mean the Blue wire by the Key Switch shorted with a negative?

I am not sure why Club Car did not fuse that Tow/Run power on a DS like they did on a Precedent, You may want to consider adding an inline fuse to the pink wire by the Solenoid big post.

If no wire caught on fire, there is a good chance the sonic-weld is damaged and needs to be replaced with a crimped connection.

Follow the power from the Solenoid Pink wire and make sure it goes to the Tow/Run switch.

Then follow from the Tow/Run switch Light Green wire to the Sonic-Weld somewhere in the harness where it connects to all of those other wires, including the Green wire that goes to the Key Switch.

[oldbeefcake]

Originally Posted by Sergio

You mean the Blue wire by the Key Switch shorted with a negative?

I am not sure why Club Car did not fuse that Tow/Run power on a DS like they did on a Precedent, You may want to consider adding an inline fuse to the pink wire by the Solenoid big post.

If no wire caught on fire, there is a good chance the sonic-weld is damaged and needs to be replaced with a crimped connection.

Follow the power from the Solenoid Pink wire and make sure it goes to the Tow/Run switch.

Then follow from the Tow/Run switch Light Green wire to the Sonic-Weld somewhere in the harness where it connects to all of those other wires, including the Green wire that goes to the Key Switch.

No fire. Just a small spark when I hit the key switch post. I will try that and report back to see if I can find that sonic weld. Thanks again for the quick reply. I'm going to order a new converter. The one that came with the cart doesn't have the on/off wired to the key switch so it was draining my battery.

[ryanfoster34]

@sergio -
I installed a new lifepo4 battery and have removed the charger port (still connected in cart, just laying in tub). I installed a 120v receptacle in place of the charging port and have my lifepo4 charger in the tub hardwired to the receptacle and then wired to the battery for charging.

Based on this thread, it seems I should also be doing the blue/white join but curious why as I haven't noticed anything out of the ordinary at all with my modified setup so far.

Also, I have purchased a 30amp 48-->12v stepdown and also curious about wiring it from the key'd "on" connection, but concerned about the draw from the voltage converter through that wire. I have a bluetooth BMS and have the ability to just shut it down manually, but would prefer a more 'integrated' solution like leveraging the key circuit.