2000 Yamaha G16 predator swap

[slonomo]

Power difference between 301cc and 420cc will be significant, however, the 301cc will be closer to stock engine power level, more than adequate if you aren't trying to win any races or pull hills.

Cutting the crank is necessary because it's too long to use the tapered adapter. Typically the adapter sits against the shoulder on the crankshaft and that allows you to tighten it up. The cut end of the crank needs to be recessed into the clutch just a tad so you can tighten the bolt down and it won't interfere. You can use spacers or washers to take up the gap, but you're talking like 2" worth of washers. Plus the clutch will be sitting way out on the end of the crank and will put stress on the crank bearings. If you have to remove your stock clutch you'll still have to use a puller tool.

Using a 1" clutch solves all those problems. It will mount tight up against the engine and will use the entire crank length as a mounting surface, so very reliable and foolproof. It uses a 1/4" keyway to lock in position, also no need for a puller to remove the clutch, remove the bolt and it just slides right off.

[slonomo]

https://www.buggiesgonewild.com/show...adapter&page=3

See post #27

[Jvelella]

Originally Posted by slonomo

https://www.buggiesgonewild.com/show...adapter&page=3

See post #27

Thank you. That is the exact info I needed.

[slonomo]

You bet! Post some photos up!

[Jvelella]

I absolutely will post pics, been taking them as I go. Stuck on one spot, Tapping the predator drive shaft. I am having problems and was wondering if anyone has any good tips for this? is the drive shaft hardened steel? The way it drilled Id say no, but I can not get the tap to start, 1/2" tap in a 27/64 hole. Drilled fine but can not get the tap to bite

[slonomo]

Originally Posted by Jvelella

I absolutely will post pics, been taking them as I go. Stuck on one spot, Tapping the predator drive shaft. I am having problems and was wondering if anyone has any good tips for this? is the drive shaft hardened steel? The way it drilled Id say no, but I can not get the tap to start, 1/2" tap in a 27/64 hole. Drilled fine but can not get the tap to bite

Just curious, why 1/2"? Most of us use 3/8-24.

When I tap I use "Magic Tap" tapping fluid/oil. I also use it when I drill thick steel. Not sure what taps you are using, but you need to use a tapered tap. Some people inadvertently get a thread chasing tap with a flat end on it, no bueno.

[Jvelella]

what kind of tap did you use? I broke a drill bit about an inch in and still working on removing it. ended up cutting the shaft this morning and started fresh with the new hole. going to do a 3/8 but the only taps I have are from harbor freight and I don't think its going to tap the shaft. Is the shaft hardened steel? when drilling it doesn't come out in ribbons so I would guess, but also drilled easier then any other hardened steel Ive ever seen. Called some machine shops in the area and non will drill this **** thing and tap it while on the engine.

[slonomo]

I drilled mine with a Dewalt cordless drill and some Milwaukee brand drill bits from Home Depot. Taps were also from Home Depot. Harbor Freight is ok for some stuff, but for drill bits and taps....nope. A good quality drill bit set will set you back $100 or more. A good quality single 3/8 x 24 tap will cost you $20 or so. Magic Tap fluid is $20 a bottle or less. Usually drill bits that break are not centered in the hole, especially deep holes. If you have a tall drill press you can shim the engine up in a way that the crank is plumb, although it's not easy to get it right. If you are doing the drilling by hand you have to really have a strong grip and arm, and a super keen eye to keep the drill bit straight.

This kind of trouble is exactly why I don't recommend cutting and tapping cranks, it's just too difficult of a job for a novice. Some people have the skills and ability and it might seem easy for them. But if a machine shop won't do it there must be a reason. It's definitely not easy. You could take the crank out of the engine and then take it to a machine shop.

The rule of thumb when drilling thick steel: Slow speed/Heavy pressure/Lubrication

[Jvelella]

I got it, it was a day long process though. now just found out the stock belt is just to short since I am using the 301cc, its just a tiny bit shorter and is hitting the throttle linkage on the rear Dif. So I have a longer belt showing up today, everything else looks like smooth sailing except modifying the bracket for the S/G but that is the last thing to fab up and waiting on the belt so I know proper positioning.

Unfortunately the 301 does not have the same bolt pattern as the 420, so I am having to drill out new mounting holes.

Pics to come soon.

[Jvelella]

Finally got the engine up and mounted. Tomorrow should be just fingering out the SG. :)

So my question is on the mechanical fuel pump there are 3 fuel lines. One coming from the gas tank, one going to the carb, and the other I have no idea where to hook it up?????