2000 Yamaha G16 predator swap

[raydhd]

I also don't think the stock muffler is going to be quiet enough for golf course use. It is basically lawn mower loud and I don't think this will be allowed.

[Jvelella]

I think I'll add a kill switch but attach it to the throttle, anytime the throttle is fully let off it will hit the switch and kill the motor. as well as lower the idle to kill it.

Just ordered the Vegas carts mount, and a clutch adaptor.

Anyone know how much of the drive shaft I will need to cut off? Any threads on this?
Waiting on the new month to see if I am lucky and get the predator on sale or not. If not I will just pick one up but hoping the new month gets it on the sale sheets.

Lots of other little things I need to fix on the cart prior to playing with it for more speed/torque, I need to re-do the seats, lights, rear seat/golf club holder, get a wind shield, add some little electronics like power usb, blue tooth speaker, fan, and iPad mount. Then I can start playing with more speed, but need it functional first.

[raydhd]

Hope you got the S/G and engine mounts ?

[slonomo]

Originally Posted by slonomo

The biggest hurdle is the wiring and using the factory starter/gen and pedal start with the new engine. If you are mechanically inclined it shouldn't be too difficult to figure out. Wiring seems to be an issue on a lot of the builds I see. I think Vegas Carts does have wiring kits, or they used to.

Let me clarify....

Wiring a kill switch into the factory harness or into the start stop button on the accelerator pedal. It's not that big of a deal if you know wiring. If you aren't a wire wizard, it's not that easy. Basically you have to attach a wire to the kill lug on the engine, then tap it into the start stop button on the pedal. With the pedal in the up position, that switch will be grounded. With the pedal depressed, that switch will be open.

raydhd has a good suggestion with a remote mounted kill switch. That's the easiest option. Again, if you know wiring, super easy. Run a wire from the kill lug to the remote location (dashboard?). Connect that wire to a one lug on a toggle switch. Run another wire from ground (negative battery cable or other ground) to the other pole on the switch. You could also use a push button switch that just grounds when you push the button, then opens the circuit automatically. I call this "Panic Button" for the kiddos

[Jvelella]

What is the best way to cut the drive shaft to fit the stock clutch? Also any known threads on this? I tried searching but not finding it yet?


Also thanks for all the info guys. Got the engine mount and clutch adapter in. Getting ready to start this in the next few days. Just waiting to see if the 420 goes on sale come October.

[raydhd]

Some youtubes on crankshaft cutting. Some involve running the engine and using some sort of cutting tool on the crank for an even cut. I have not done this and not saying that it the safest way to do this.

[slonomo]

I cut the cranks with a 1/8" cut off wheel on my 4.5" grinder. Works great. Titanium drill bit for the center hole, then use a high quality tap set to tap the threads to 3/8 - 24 if I remember correctly. When I drill and tap I always use "Tap Magic" tapping fluid, makes the job so much easier. It's difficult to get the center hole drilled straight without a drill press. Then the issue is getting the engine under the press and holding it level. I usually take the crank out to do this. It's not a fun process.

I don't remember the length I cut the cranks to. I think it will vary depending upon your clutch and how close the clutch sits to the engine. One clutch I used had a big gear on the inside for the 2 cycle oil injection pump, so it was different than most. You'll have to fit the clutch up with some spacers on the shaft to get the distance from the engine correct, then mark where the clutch sits and locate the spacer based on that position. Again, not a fun process.

My recommendation is to keep the crank stock length and use a 1" clutch like the Comet 780. Yes it's more expensive, but way less labor and heartache. And the end result is much better performance and no problems. I've done it both ways, much prefer using a 780 clutch and keeping the cranks stock.

[Jvelella]

My question is so I can wrap my head around it, Why do I need to cut the shaft? Does the shaft just sit the clutch to far out that it causes the belt to be misaligned? if that's the case couldn't I just shift the motor over an inch or so to get it lined up? I feel like there could be an easier solution then cutting the drive shaft.

[Jvelella]

Also what are yawls thoughts on the predator 301 instead if I need more room. I can get a 3/4" to 1" adaptor for the drive shaft, I am in FL so no real hills it needs to climb. Would probably be easier to make quiet..... Just a thought. Again if I can get 15-20MPH out of the cart reliably Id be happy.

I am on a budget and keeps adding up so the extra $300+ for the Comet and Belt for S/G isn't in the budget at the moment. Id Rather have a reliable working cart for now and after saving up a bit in the future I can always upgrade.

[Jvelella]

Just spent some time at harbor freight, the 301cc has a 1" shaft as well, and the motor is roughly 1" narrower. So If I was going to have to cut off roughly 1" of the driveshaft to make the bully sign up maybe Ill just go the 301 route that has more room to maneuver. appears to be the same engine mount on the 420 and the 301.