Replaced cables now nothing

[scottyb]

Oh I see, sounds like you are right then

[Goldstripe]

i definitely had the 2 large wires crossed up back at the motor. I never touched the field or smaller wires and the speed sensor wire.

Going to try and find the motor test to hopefully rule that out. I do wonder about the reverse buzzer and how it's lack of functionality (sometimes) plays into this

[Volt_Ampere]

Crossing the two large (A1, A2) wires on the motor would not hurt anything. It would just run in reverse when the switch is in FWD and FWD when the switch is in reverse.

[Goldstripe]

Originally Posted by Volt_Ampere

Crossing the two large (A1, A2) wires on the motor would not hurt anything. It would just run in reverse when the switch is in FWD and FWD when the switch is in reverse.

Yep, that's what i experienced for the split second it actually works/worked when the wires were crossed. Leaning more toward the controller being fried but i'm definitely not an expert.

[mgray70]

Originally Posted by Goldstripe

i definitely had the 2 large wires crossed up back at the motor. I never touched the field or smaller wires and the speed sensor wire.



Going to try and find the motor test to hopefully rule that out. I do wonder about the reverse buzzer and how it's lack of functionality (sometimes) plays into this

The buzzer issue is probably just a buzzer going bad intermittently as long as the cart is moving when it's in reverse. That would rule out the reverse switch.

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

[Goldstripe]

i'm chasing ghosts apparently or welded the solenoid tonight. I did verify that my connections at the motor are indeed correct; B+ controller to A2 motor and A1 to A1. The A2 stud going into the motor was a tad loose so i gently snugged that up. i may have done that tonight or over the last several days.

Now, trying to hook the batteries together (i leave 1 unhooked) gives me a spark show and knocked a spot of tin off the copper lug. That's NEW. So, I unhooked both field wires at the controller and large (A1 and A2) back at the motor and I still get the spark show. Does this confirm my controller is done or perhaps i toasted the brand new solenoid? Or both, the bad controller nuked the solenoid. This is with key off and in tow mode. what the heck is going on here.

[mgray70]

Originally Posted by Goldstripe

i'm chasing ghosts apparently or welded the solenoid tonight. I did verify that my connections at the motor are indeed correct; B+ controller to A2 motor and A1 to A1. The A2 stud going into the motor was a tad loose so i gently snugged that up. i may have done that tonight or over the last several days.



Now, trying to hook the batteries together (i leave 1 unhooked) gives me a spark show and knocked a spot of tin off the copper lug. That's NEW. So, I unhooked both field wires at the controller and large (A1 and A2) back at the motor and I still get the spark show. Does this confirm my controller is done or perhaps i toasted the brand new solenoid? Or both, the bad controller nuked the solenoid. This is with key off and in tow mode. what the heck is going on here.

I'm still leaning towards bad controller based on the info you've posted. I assume it's a factory Curtis?

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

[Goldstripe]

Originally Posted by mgray70

I'm still leaning towards bad controller based on the info you've posted. I assume it's a factory Curtis?

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

Yes, factory Curtis controller. I just hooked the battery back up with the motor and controller disconnected from the solenoid and no spark show - run mode with key on. I wanted to test the new solenoid function with the pedal. In reverse I get the click on and off every time I press the pedal, release and repress. In forward it's a different, faster click of the solenoid on then off. Letting off the pedal and back on doesn't reengage the solenoid, I have to go to tow mode then back to run to get the same fast click from the solenoid. I can take a quick video and post it up if that might help.

[Goldstripe]

I just got back from a local cart store here in Jax, FL. I brought the controller up there and I had already taken the cover off. You can smell the classic burnt electrical small, although it's not overwhelmingly strong. I was hoping to pick one up cheap from their boneyard but they wanted $350 or $399 which I wasn't willing to do. I'd rather put that money in a 36v-48v Navitas or Alltrax so I can slowly upgrade to 48v. The guys in the shop there said even with the battery disconnected, the resistor has enough residual current that if you touch the B+ and B- with a wrench, it could short out the controller. Not sure if that's accurate or not but that's what they told me.

[kgsc]

Could just post over in the parts for sale section looking for used pds controller..