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Electric EZGO Electric EZ GO Marathon, Medalist, TXT and RXV.



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Old 05-21-2023, 04:47 PM   #11
Goldstripe
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Default Re: Replaced cables now nothing

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Originally Posted by kgsc View Post
You need to test for voltage on the controller side of the solenoid with the pedal pushed and everything connected otherwise you will see mostly pack voltage because of the resistor. If it is getting hot I’m betting the solenoid has failed.
Yep, the voltage on the controller side is pack voltage until I turn the switch to run mode, then drops to 2.x (no pedal) and continues to drop. At 0.9v in about 30 secs I can smell the resistor and throw the switch back to tow mode. I could try testing with pedal but the solenoid doesn't click. Best I can get is a brief click if I'm holding the pedal down, switch to run, I'll hear the click and their is brief movement before it quits. All the while the resistor is almost burning itself up. I plan on upgrading to 48v down the road when these batteries die. A cheap solenoid for now will at least tell me if that was indeed the problem.
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Old 05-21-2023, 09:01 PM   #12
kgsc
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Default Re: Replaced cables now nothing

Well first check to make sure yellow/positive and blue/negative have pack voltage when the pedal is pushed.
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Old 05-23-2023, 06:44 AM   #13
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Default Re: Replaced cables now nothing

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Originally Posted by kgsc View Post
Well first check to make sure yellow/positive and blue/negative have pack voltage when the pedal is pushed.
Circling back on this. I did verify that the voltage on the smaller posts does indeed increase when the pedal is pushed for the split second before the solenoid gives up and then returns to zero

new solenoid should be here tomorrow.
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Old 05-24-2023, 06:26 PM   #14
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Default Re: Replaced cables now nothing

Just got the solenoid today and put it in. Initially the same symptoms; a brief click if I press the pedal as soon as I turn on the run switch and then no power in forward or reverse. The cart will move slightly in reverse before the solenoid clicks off (less than a second) if i'm holding the pedal before i turn the switch to run. And, the resistor was getting hot again but that didn't last long and does not get hot anymore (maybe it's burnt up).

I do have new symptoms now. I noticed the field wires on the controller were warm and the cart now moves slightly in reverse when i turn the switch to run regardless if i'm in F or R or neutral. The motor itself was also warm which is also new. I'm starting to think i shorted something out taking the large wires off the controller
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Old 05-24-2023, 06:49 PM   #15
mgray70
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Default Re: Replaced cables now nothing

You said earlier that you disconnected the motor wires, and you are still getting the hot resistor. That can only mean the controller is shorted. The motor is the load, which is disconnected. Therefore if the controller was good, it would have no load, no current flow. The load is the short in the controller.

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Old 05-24-2023, 07:48 PM   #16
Goldstripe
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Default Re: Replaced cables now nothing

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You said earlier that you disconnected the motor wires, and you are still getting the hot resistor. That can only mean the controller is shorted. The motor is the load, which is disconnected. Therefore if the controller was good, it would have no load, no current flow. The load is the short in the controller.

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk
Yep, and that (now that you said it) makes perfect sense and i think would be worth cracking the controller open to see what i can see. Blown caps, melted wires, etc. What do you guys think? The motor being warm today was new along with the field wires being warm.

One thing I forgot to mention - there's always one thing right? The reverse buzzer on this cart has always been spotty. Most of the time it never sounds but if i leave the cart in reverse with the key off sometimes I'd notice the buzzer going off in the garage for who knows how long and flip the switch to F or tow mode. This was long before I started messing with any of the wiring. The reverse buzzer would then operate normally for a very short time (that day) before going dormant again.
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Old 05-25-2023, 08:58 AM   #17
scottyb
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Default Re: Replaced cables now nothing

As you said cart ran fine before cables were replaced....
If the motor studs were allowed to spin when the cable nuts were removed or replaced then there may be a short in the motor. A motor short can take out most controllers.
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Old 05-25-2023, 09:13 AM   #18
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Default Re: Replaced cables now nothing

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As you said cart ran fine before cables were replaced....
If the motor studs were allowed to spin when the cable nuts were removed or replaced then there may be a short in the motor. A motor short can take out most controllers.
The motor still does move the cart when I put it in run with the key on or off, F or R or neutral and those studs are still rock solid back there.

i think in the process of getting the B+ wires loose (i had to use impact driver), i may have shorted to the post right next to it with the wrench. Even with one battery cable disconnected, I do recall seeing a tiny flash of light with no sound so perhaps there was residual current in the solenoid or somewhere.

I saw a video somewhere that mentioned testing the motor w/o the controller so i need to read up on that and try it. My other option is to reach out here locally to see if i can find a known good controller to test with. I also may open up the case on the controller and see if anything looks awry.

I really appreciate all the help from everyone, i know it's tough when the cart is not front of you.
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Old 05-25-2023, 09:41 AM   #19
Volt_Ampere
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Default Re: Replaced cables now nothing

As long as you had one battery cable disconnected, you should not have damaged anything electrically. The spark might have been a capacitor with some charge on it. I would never use an impact on anything connected electrically though as you might crack a solder joint internally.
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Old 05-25-2023, 12:24 PM   #20
mgray70
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Default Re: Replaced cables now nothing

Quote:
Originally Posted by scottyb View Post
As you said cart ran fine before cables were replaced....

If the motor studs were allowed to spin when the cable nuts were removed or replaced then there may be a short in the motor. A motor short can take out most controllers.
He said in the original post, that he originally had two motor cables crossed. Depending on which two, may have taken out the controller. He's getting current flow through the resistor, with the motor disconnected, almost has to be a short in the controller.

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