Is it the solenoid?? 2001 36v TXT

[Jblack]

Originally Posted by kgsc

Should be able to disconnect one of the S wires and either the + or M- wire. Then check for continuity with the solenoid activated in F and R. Should be none with no power.

okay I ran this test. S1 disconnected from Motor and M- and checking continuity from the S1 cable end back to the contactor

With pedal depressed in F The S1 contactor post has continuity and the S2 doesn't
With pedal depressed in R The S1 contactor post has continuity and the S2 doesn't

The continuity between the two contactor post goes away in both F&R

[kgsc]

Basically the solenoid should have continuity between two sets of posts. So plus to S1 and M- to S2 in either F or R. Then the other would be plus to S2 and M- to S1. If that is happening the contactor is probably okay.

[Jblack]

Not sure what to next. Thought for sure it was the solenoid. Any other tests that can be run? Only parts that haven't been swapped or changed are the controller and motor. But they seem to test okay. I had bypassed the reed switch previously.

[kgsc]

Well for a test disconnect the 182 out of the equation.. S2 to A2 and S1 to B+

[Jblack]

I bypassed the reversing contactor and still a no go. I wanted to recheck everything again. The first test was solenoid, I have Bat voltage 38.1 to Battery side of solenoid. I checked the controller side and it's at 26.5V!! This test was done with the resistor ON. The diag test says no more than 3V less then pack. So I'm assuming that the resistor that came with the solenoid is bad? The controller output now doesn't show anything when the pedal is depressed. I'm assuming too low of a voltage present at the B+ terminal has now disabled the controller.

[SolarRat]

You can bypass that controller if you jumper M- to B- with a large wire (or, I usually just use channel lock pliers across the posts). Raise the rear wheels because it will only go full speed in either direction when you press the pedal. If you do this and it works you likely have a bad controller. If it still doesn't work your problem is further down the high current path (F/R solenoids or motor), or the ITS is not working correctly (doubtful).

[SolarRat]

Originally Posted by Jblack

I bypassed the reversing contactor and still a no go. I wanted to recheck everything again. The first test was solenoid, I have Bat voltage 38.1 to Battery side of solenoid. I checked the controller side and it's at 26.5V!! This test was done with the resistor ON. The diag test says no more than 3V less then pack. So I'm assuming that the resistor that came with the solenoid is bad? The controller output now doesn't show anything when the pedal is depressed. I'm assuming too low of a voltage present at the B+ terminal has now disabled the controller.

Well that changes everything. The resistor is used to pre-charge the controller capacitors, so while the reading is low I don't think it would cause the problem, but could be pointing to a draw somewhere. Does the resistor or anything else get hot if you leave the key on a few minutes? Disconnect the output side of the solenoid and see what the voltage past the resistor is then.

You've obviously got to find out why the solenoid isn't clicking, so start by making sure you have ground on the small black wire, then use a jumper wire from pack + to the small red terminal and it should click.

[kgsc]

It is possible that the solenoid has failed and that is why you have a voltage drop. It is also possible that the resistor has been damaged due to the solenoid failing. You can jump over the solenoid and try that.

[Jblack]

I pulled the resistor and it's right on at 250ohms. I took the controller side cable off and the reading across the post is appox a 2V drop. So that's good. The solenoid does click every time. Going to reinstall cable and see what i reads.

everything on the low voltage side seem to be working.

[Jblack]

Interesting find now. When I tested the solenoid previously I still had the reversing contactor bypassed. This time I put everything back where it belongs and now the reading is 2V less on the controller side of the solenoid. And the controller output voltage is working again from 0V to 37V.
So now I'm thinking there must be a short in the motor, or from one of the four cables. I did check the continuity of the cables and they all seemed okay. I also checked with motor via a 12v jump and it spun. But could there still be something internal to the motor