2009 Club Car only clicks and buzzes - suspect controller or motor issue

[djbeede]

I'll give it a try, thanks.
Djb

[Bertrrr]

Post your results, I ran this motor test and my motor runs , I tried the continuity test mentioned and I have no continuity between any of the terminals - still scratchin my head

[djbeede]

The motor passed the 12v test! One wheel was a bit more eager to spin than the other but I'm pretty sure that's just a brake shoe dragging. Glad to know now my motor isn't dead!

I assume that means I need to replace the Motor Controller. However, I have one more MCOR question?

I know the symptom set for a bad MCOR and a degenerating Motor Controller overlap some. I replaced the MCOR because it was potentially the least expensive solution if it worked. I did not go for the pricey OEM ones made in Mexico, or the ultra cheap one from Ebay but got one from Amazon that is for sure made in China. I've since learned that some of those can be bad out of the box. Is it possible that could produce my present symptoms? Or would I not even get the solenoid to click? Is there a way to bench test an MCOR? I'm within my 30 day return/exchange period.

In that ball park... the aftermarket Curtis controller replacements range from $250 to over $500. Anyone have a source they trust and would recommend, or is it read the reviews and cross my fingers time?

Thanks again for the quality feedback on my project.

[Volt_Ampere]

I would go with an Alltrax controller. You can program it yourself with a laptop and they have a great reputation. I have them in both of my carts.

[djbeede]

Originally Posted by Bertrrr

Post your results, I ran this motor test and my motor runs , I tried the continuity test mentioned and I have no continuity between any of the terminals - still scratchin my head

I ran the tests Fairtax recommended
"Check continuity of the motor with the continuity test function of your meter. Set it to beep. (mine is visual)
A1 to A2 you should have continuity.
F1 to F2 should have continuity.
Any A to Any F post should have NO continuity.
Any A or F post to the motor case (clean metal) should have NO continuity."

All of my results matched his test exactly. I guess you've checked your multimeter... I'd scratch my head too. At least you're wondering why your motor runs instead of why it doesn't!

[djbeede]

Originally Posted by Volt_Ampere

I would go with an Alltrax controller. You can program it yourself with a laptop and they have a great reputation. I have them in both of my carts.

They look like well designed controllers. Given how basic my cart is (Curtis 250 amp controller, original 3.3hp motor) Would the models that claim more torque and speed be overkill for my motor? I do like reputable, dependable parts.

Did you have any thought on my MCOR question?

[Volt_Ampere]

I can't help you on the MCOR. I have never diagnosed an MCOR failure. Your motor should be fine with Alltrax. You can dial the performance with Alltrax - limiting the max current if need be. You can order one specific for your model of cart so that the connectors are all compatible. Your motor is ok since you did the battery test and the motor ran. That is much better than just the continuity test.

[djbeede]

Ordered the Alltrax controller this morning! Thanks for the tips.

[djbeede]

I installed the Alltrax controller and got my Club Car rolling again after years in storage!

My top speed was just a few miles an hour so I replaced the speed sensor and it's now 18 mph!

The Alltrax is not entirely plug and play. The actual wiring is, but mounting and routing the wires seemed a bit complicated. The guide Alltrax puts out has the wire harness running through the battery compartment floor and back up to the controller. This involves cutting an extra access hole in the plastic controller shield. (In front of the motor, see image)

https://photos.app.goo.gl/bQqfFsNpsxh9yGJT7

I'm still having an issue with getting it back on its clips. Any tips welcome.

I got a waterproof Signature Solar EG4 Battery Charger, per someone's recommendation on the forum here, thanks. Its vertical mounting should work really well.

Really appreciate all your great experienced input on my project.

Here's the online guide I used for the install.
https://www.cartpartsrus.com/AllTrax...utorial-P2.pdf

[djbeede]

I thought I was nearly finished with my project.

Got several good short test rides of less then a mile with top speeds of 18 or 19mph.

The car started to surge and lack acceleration.
I thought the new MCOR (not OEM, $40 from Amazon) might have gone bad.
I swapped it for the original, thinking if the controller had been the issue all along, the original MCOR might still be good.

It was worse than the Amazon replacement, non responsive and surging and GO pedal being touchy or when fully depressed nearly no juice.
Switched back to the Amazon MCOR and the top speed is now 8mph.

Could any of the above have damaged the new speed sensor I installed?

Is there a way to monitor my Alltrax controller with cable and laptop to see if it is the problem?

Can a bad MCOR damage a controller or speed sensor?

Any suggested multi-meter tests to track this down?

Thanks for any suggestions.