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Electric EZGO Electric EZ GO Marathon, Medalist, TXT and RXV.



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Old 12-15-2020, 11:20 AM   #1
mebucko
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Location: Gainesville, Florida
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Default Still no forward or reverse

I obtained a 1999 EZGO TXT 36 volt electric golf cart in good (body and frame) condition. No mods, just a stock 36v. So, first I spent the big bucks on a new set of batterie, and all new battery cables.

Then found that the drivers rear hub was stripped, so I replaced it, along with both side brake shoes. then replaced the FWD/REV switch with a heavy duty unit, as I had no forward or reverse operation (buzzer buzzed when in reverse though). Then replaced the solenoid with a heavy duty unit (36 volt).

After all this, I had the motor spin the cart backwards and forwards a few times, then nothing. Batteries are still fully charged, as I see over 36 volts across the pack.

When I press the "go pedal", I can hear the solenoid click. This tells me that the pedal switch is good (?), and the solenoid is good (when the FWD/REV selector) is in one or the other position.

Next. I will test the controller by putting the selector in FWD, pressing the "go pedal", listen for the solenoid to click, and seeing if I have 36-38 volts at the two large posts of the controller.

I sure hope there is no voltage, as then I would know the controller is the culprit.

If I have voltage however, then what could be wrong? Bad motor? I've lifted the back end up and spun the drivers side tire/hub; I feel slight resistance, as the axle is turning, along with the motor, as I can see the motor "flex" a bit when spinning the drivers rear tire/hub.

Am I doing the troubleshooting right? Am I missing something?

I will followup tomorrow with the controller voltage test results.
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Old 12-15-2020, 11:46 AM   #2
JohnnieB
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Location: West Virginia
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Default Re: Still no forward or reverse

Sounds like you have a cart with a series drive.

Connect your DVM between the controllers B- and M- terminals. It should read full battery pack voltage (38.2V when fully charged) when pedal is pushed just far enough to make solenoid click and smoothly decrease to 0V as the pedal is slowly pushed to the floor.
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Old 12-15-2020, 12:16 PM   #3
Sideways
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Default Re: Still no forward or reverse

Are the batteries fully charged?
"as I see over 36 volts across the pack" is only 50 to 60% charged.
See Johnnie's chart below.
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File Type: jpg JohnnieB's SoC Chart.JPG (42.1 KB, 0 views)
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Old 12-15-2020, 12:28 PM   #4
mebucko
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Default Re: Still no forward or reverse

I did connect the charger to the cart the other day (about an hour after I installed the new batteries). Perhaps my mistake in stating "I see 36 or more volts..."

At the very least, I should see this voltage at the B- and M- terminals at the controller (thanks to JohnnieB) which I will do tonight and post results later.

I hope to see nothing when the solenoid clicks; at least then I know what is wrong at this point.
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Old 12-15-2020, 12:32 PM   #5
mebucko
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Default Re: Still no forward or reverse

Thanks for the help...this is a very helpful site to a newbie golf cart owner.
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Old 12-15-2020, 12:46 PM   #6
Sideways
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Default Re: Still no forward or reverse

Johnnieb can explain it better but the way I understand it is that a new set of batteries takes a few full charging cycles to break in.
Check for full pack charge 12 to 24 hours after the charger has shut off on it's own

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Old 12-15-2020, 01:30 PM   #7
JohnnieB
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Default Re: Still no forward or reverse

Quote:
Originally Posted by mebucko View Post
I did connect the charger to the cart the other day (about an hour after I installed the new batteries). Perhaps my mistake in stating "I see 36 or more volts..."

At the very least, I should see this voltage at the B- and M- terminals at the controller (thanks to JohnnieB) which I will do tonight and post results later.

I hope to see nothing when the solenoid clicks; at least then I know what is wrong at this point.
Should see voltage when solenoid first clicks and then the voltage should get lower as the pedal is pushed.

The voltmeter is measuring the voltage drop across an open when the solenoid first clicks and the progressively less resistance as the pedal is pushed until there is effectively a short between B- and M-.

If there is an open in the cables, motor, F/R switch contacts or solenoid contacts, there won't be a voltage reading between B- and M-.

If the voltage reading doesn't go down when the pedal is pushed further, either the throttle is bad or the controller is bad.
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Old 12-16-2020, 11:50 AM   #8
mebucko
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Default Re: Still no forward or reverse

UPDATE:

Performed the recommended controller test, and found no voltage at B- and M- of controller leads when pedal was operated (click at solenoid). Remained at 0 volts when pedal was pressed to floor after solenoid clicked.

My helper friend tugged on the bundle of 4 wires at the motor, and we got a motor spin for a second or two when pressing the pedal, but then nothing after attempted tries.

My next test will be to label each of the 4 motor leads and check each one to their other source end of the lead for continuity. Will also test the motor using the procedure found here on this site (use a 12 volt battery, remove the 4 cables from the motor, jumper S1 to A2 at motor, then connect negative of 12 volt battery to A1, positive from 12 volt battery to S2 to see if motor spins).

Since I've replaced the F/R switch and solenoid already (both with good quality heady duty parts), I'm thinking they are not at fault, but it could be that a new one was bad I suppose.

I'll post again tomorrow my results.

Again, thanks for reading and helping out.
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