EZGO 2004 48V Workhorse missing wiring harness

[sufferinghusband]

Am in the process of getting an old 2004 Workhorse moving again. Someone decided to remove the wiring harness and motor. All wiring leaving under the seat from the controller is gone. I am left with a foot of wires hanging off the 1268 controller. It is my intention to get it wired up initially just to prove it will work, and then redo the wiring at a later stage. I am not worried about lights etc, just need to get the wiring done to enable it to move. I have installed a working 48v motor and redone the wiring to the motor, except the speed controller. Wiring from the key switch, throttle, pedal interlock, Forward and Backward switches are yet to be done. As the wiring has been cut to these items I cant just colour match as where they have changed colours in the harness and what I have at the other end is totally different. Would there be an easy way to put the bare minimum on the controller to get it to work? First time tinkering with one of these. Did not expect the wiring harness to be gone! Even the wires were cut off the throttle underneath! I believe I have all the bits to get it running, just need to jerryrig the wiring first so I know I am not wasting my time. Looking at the Curtis 1268 diagram, everything runs off 48volts, is that right? Seems a little high to me, but thought I would ask. Any advice is greatly appreciated. I dont have a clue what the main contactor is, or does but I believe it is still in there wired up. The solenoid is off to the side and still has wires going to it. I have power to the RUN/TOW switch but have stopped at that point. If I can put it together bit by bit without ruining the controller I will be happy. Stay safe.

[kgsc]

Main contactor is the solenoid. Just follow the wiring diagram and get the basics there just to see if the controller powers up. 48v is correct

[sufferinghusband]

Contactor is the solenoid, ok then. I went ahead and wired up what I think to be correct, just in an abridged version! I have the key switch, forward/reverse switch hooked into what was left of the wiring under the seat. When I turn on the key all the way clockwise, and depress the accelerator a solenoid clicks but nothing happens. No power at the motor. The throttle tested fine, as did the pedal cut out. I am 90% certain I have wired it up right but I do have a couple of wires left over. I have one black wire which I am taking as a ground. And a wire with battery voltage on it that I have no clue where it goes. I figured out the speed sensor wiring, but am starting to think that the black wire I have left over should just go to the battery negative side. That leaves me with the wire with battery voltage on it. Apart from having the keyswitch etc at the seat, until I get some longer cables to put them back in the dash, I am sure its wired right to a degree. I push the accelerator, hear the solenoid click, but no power to the motor. My batteries are not great but should be enough to get something to the motor to complete the circuit I would imagine. My crappy test batterys are sitting on 45V. Is there a low voltage cutoff?? Any suggestions appreciated.

[cgtech]

Are you wanting a whole wire harness? It will likely be available, but not "on the cheap". I think you put your foot in some mud here.

[sufferinghusband]

No not after a harness, I can make one up once I know the buggy is going to work. I feel I am very close. From reading multiple forums I am leaning towards the high voltage side of things being the problem. Will double check the solenoid today, and find out what the other solenoid is against the body. I havent seen the charge port yet, so maybe it may be the problem if it has a reed switch in it. The wiring diagram doesnt show everything on the cart, so I could be missing something simple. Will persevere and see what I can come up with.

[sufferinghusband]

Went to check the wiring out again. Connected up the battery and turned the key on. Noticed I am getting a flashing status light on the controller. Its flashing 5, and 3. Manual says Aux short to ground OR faulty controller. Aux goes back to pin 23 on the 24 pin plug, and relates to either the EM or Walkaway. I have no info on them but am just considering removing pin 23 from the equation. I disconnected the wire on Pin 23 but now I get (code 2,5 Missing aux (brake, relay) coil. Aux coil open or not connected.) I know its not connected because I disconnected it so it must need to see something on Pin 23 to clear the fault code. Trying to test the item that was attached to Pin 23 to see if it is working or not. Any other options here??

[sufferinghusband]

Good news! I swapped out the batteries to get over 50v. Solenoid clicked and we have movement forward and reverse just very slowly. Might be the batteries or something else, but am going to charge the batteries again and see things fare. Forgot to see if the status light is still blinking!

[itsmedjchuckd]

I just put in a new controller and I’m getting the same thing. 2,5, moving super slow. I noticed there is no wires connecting to walk away relay harness. Did you get one? I think once I get the harness it will run again.