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Gas Yamaha Gas Yamaha Golf Cars; G1 through "The Drive" and U-Max Utility Vehicles |
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02-12-2008, 03:33 PM | #1 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: central valley
Posts: 167
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engine stumbled and now no spark
my 1980 g1 started stumbling like it wasnt getting gas then died, tried with muffler off and pulled the plug and it was fouled (dark oily black) i pre mix 50:1, so put new plug in and nothing, used a spark tester and no spark. any ideas?
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02-12-2008, 05:48 PM | #2 |
Sometime's............
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Tacoma Washington
Posts: 11,875
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Re: engine stumbled and now no spark
First look at the 4 wires that come out of the engine(passangerside) that plug int the wire harness. They are "bulit/snap" connectors, hopefully they came undun or corroded off. Later Dave
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02-13-2008, 02:06 PM | #3 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: central valley
Posts: 167
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Re: engine stumbled and now no spark
went through wires, non loose or came off. everything is working the exact same just no spark, is there anyway to test the coil or anything else i might test?
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02-13-2008, 08:24 PM | #4 |
Sometime's............
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Tacoma Washington
Posts: 11,875
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Re: engine stumbled and now no spark
I'll try to post the tests for "pulser/source coils"/ignition coil" tomarrow. Unfortunatly there is no "test" for the "CDI" unit. It's the last of the "ignition" "string". If all other tests so good......bad "CDI". Later Dave
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02-13-2008, 08:28 PM | #5 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: central valley
Posts: 167
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Re: engine stumbled and now no spark
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02-14-2008, 08:46 PM | #6 |
Sometime's............
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Tacoma Washington
Posts: 11,875
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Re: engine stumbled and now no spark
First lets try "Pulser and Source" coil Ohms test. On the passanger side rear inner fender you'll find the wire harness "bulit" conections to the "cdi" (between the rearward side of the soleniods). "Unplug" the (white/red and white/green) wires...check the ohm reading...should be 14 ohms +-10% (if not you have a wire harness problem or the "pulsar coil" behind the flywheel. Now "Unplug" the (brown and black) wires...ohm reading should be 350 ohms+-10% (if not you have a wire harness problem or the " charge coil" behind the flywheel. Now to check the "ignition coil". Unscrew your spark plug cap (counter clockwise), unplug the "orange" wire from the wire harness...check for continuity between the orange wire and the "core" of the ignition coil (meaning the metal part of the coil were the screws go thru to mount it) You should Primary winding resistance of 1.0 ohms +- 10%. If not change the coil. Now to check the "secondary winding resistance", (this is why you removed the spark plug cap).. check the ohms between "the core and the end of the spark plug wire"..You should have 5.9k ohms +- 20%...If not change the coil. I recommend you take a small section off the coil wire (with dikes) to promote a good mating surface for your spark plug cap to screw back into....(this could be the problem also ). Give these tests a try and let me know. Sorry it seem like such a long post, but if I didn't expain it this way I don't know if you'd understand the procedures. Later Dave
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