95 Club Car DS losinig speed after changing shoes - brakes dragging?

[drhill]

Hi Everyone,

Been lurking a long time on this forum but finally got signed up! I have a 95 Club Car DS with an Admiral motor, 2 gauge cables, 500amp controller from Scottyb. Great stuff, great guy.

I recently changed my rear brake shoes and drums because I drive mainly on the street and my shoes were worn. One drum was a little out of round so changed those too. Now I seem to have a brake dragging issue - top speed is down 2-3 mph and acceleration is not as strong. I did notice one of my adjusters was a little quicker to "adjust" tighter when I was setting everything back up after the new shoes.

The levers are both free to move and they do go back all the way to their stops so i think the cables are fine.

Would it be wise to replace the adjusters and the spring loaded detent mechanism that rides on them? It gets kinda pricey so if there is a cheaper way or a better idea, I'm all ears!

Also maybe I'm looking in the wrong direction?

Thank you for the help!

[fsu1tm]

The first thing I would do is to take it for a short ride and then feel the hubs or drums to see if they are warm to the touch. If the brakes are dragging then something is bound to get warm.

[scottyb]

Those self adjusters are very touchy. It is not uncommon they go into over-adjusting mode and the more you use the cart the tighter the shoes get It's well worth it to buy a new pair. Remember - there is a right and left side.

I had one brake job customer cal me back out for brake drag every week until I finally just replaced the over active adjuster. After that I carried them with me.

[drhill]

thanks guys. scotty - would I just replace the little star wheel piece and sleeve it rides in or do I also have to replace the spring loaded piece that riders on the star wheel?

thanks!

[joesam]

Soctty's bang on -

Those self adjusters are very touchy.

Actually, you can pull the drum and spin the star screw(s) down to nothing. Then just apply the brake normally (almost gently) and repeatedly to self adjust. I made the mistake of stomping to adjust my new shoes but they over adjusted and I had to open up and do it all over again. They've never over-adjusted since and as the soft/new shoes glaze & harden up a bit, they seem to work properly, even after an emergence type stop. I've never had to go-back-in.

[drhill]

I just finally got my adjusters replaced and readjusted gently....still dragging...after a 2 mile street drive both brake drums, but one much more than the other, are really hot. The cables have slack when the brake is not applied so I'm pretty sure it's not that. I am out of ideas. Any thoughts?

Maybe my brake cables are too loose and when I'm adjusting the brakes I have to press the pedal too far and it is over adjusting the brakes?

[WalterM6]

One time I couldn't get my brakes adjusted to my satisfaction. What I wound up doing was disabling the self adjusting mech and adjusted them manually. This was on a E-Z-GO Marathon. Hopefully this will work on a CC .

[Raystar57]

Seems like you know what is the proper way to install the shoes but
that leading trailing thing and unmarked shoes sometimes can be confusing.
Could it be you have the shoes mixed up? It's easy to do.

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...ead-trail.html

[drhill]

I finally had the chance to check my brake shoes, they are installed correctly, leading in the back and trailing in the front. Somebody local mentioned that maybe my cart is too old for these type of shoes, mine is a 95 club car ds?

[Golf cart guy]

Early 95 carts still used J10 brakes, but if you had self adjusters that you changed that's not he issue. The only thing I could add is make sure the brake cables are working freely.

Quality brake drums are important too, so I hope the ones you put on were not some cheapies, have seen those out of round.