Solidstate conversion on 97 resistor cart

[97ccds-custom]

Got everything wired up just waiting on my package of extra battery cables to arrive. Then I plan to lift the rear wheels off the ground and feed power to the new controller for the first time. I remember reading to plug in the USB (A) to the laptop first before plugging in the square USB (B) to the controller so I don’t mistakenly hit then cable to the frame and damage the controller.IMG_4849.jpg

[NCPW]

That's absolutely right about the printer cable.

Remember to only tap the go pedal to check wheel movement direction. You don't want to over spin the motor by allowing the wheels to run freely wide open without any ground resistance.

[97ccds-custom]

Thanks for the tip. My new 2g cable order shipment is delayed, so I cabled up as much as I could using a couple of the old cables I had sitting around just to get the batteries charging and I did not connect any of the 4 studs on the motor. This allowed me to connect the laptop to the controller and start playing with the Alltrax Toolkit software.

I have cinder blocks and wheel chocks standing by so when the cables come I can jack up the back end to lift the wheels and connect the motor and FNR to gently tap the pedal and wheel movement and direction.

My motor is a light duty GE that had a Plum Quick update done in the past. After consulting with Plum Quick, it was suggested I not run over 400A on the motor to avoid burning it up. I'm not trying to gain anymore speed because 18-21 mph is plenty for the neighborhood. Just trying to get more life out of the batteries by converting to solid state and if I can get a little more torque when loaded up and going up a few hills, I'll be happy. At some point if the motor does die on me, I'll get one rated for more torque and speed so I can really crank up the Alltrax and contractor solenoid.

Since my old 48V solenoid when running on the vglide and coils was rated for 150A continuous and 400A at 30 sec, I figured I would be conservative and set the Alltrax to a max Amps at 350A and I made sure to disable the Peak Amp Mode. Willing to take any advice.

My plan is to run the FN1 with a toggle switch. So I won't use the digital input, but rather the Analog. I've added wiring to the green J1 connection for a toggle switch. So when the switch is "on" then the FN1 analog settings will allow me to move along the slider settings, but when the toggle switch is in the "off" position the green wire will be disabled and I'm told that the Alltrax will default to the minimum settings. So it will be sort of a "kiddie" mode, but then I can turn on the FN1 to adjust for performance.

[97ccds-custom]

Here’s how I have the Alltrax with FN1 setup for a DIY keyed lock personality switch. I have the FN1 box velcroed on the inside of a glovebox on the driver side that can be locked with a key. Then the toggle switch on the dash is between the green connection and the FN1. If the switch is in off then the Alltrax operates on the minimums as if the analog dial was all the way on low. So even if the switch is turned on and the dial is set to low the FN1 is locked up so it will still operate the same. When the door is unlocked and the switch is on, the analog dial can be set to adjust speed and performance. My son wanted us to add the aircraft safety cover on the toggle switch for effect.

[jakesnake27]

Lookin’ good!

[97ccds-custom]

After getting all the cables installed, I need some help diagnosing why my cart won't move. After emailing Scotty I figured I would also post here.

I went through the Carts Unlimited troubleshooting page and here are my results:

• Battery Voltage resting is 49.6V, when I press the pedal it still reads 49.6V
• The contractor solenoid does click so I assumed I had a supply side problem.
• I triple checked all the wiring.
• I removed the pre-charge resistor (the green one on the large terminals and the voltage read 49.5V with black on Battery main (-) and red on the solenoid big + side. So it appears to match the battery pack.
• I press the pedal and this time (with the pre-charge resistor removed) there is no click.

Is it possible I have a bad solenoid?

[Sergio]

Do You mean the Solenoid clicks with the pre-charge in place but does not with it removed?

If that is the case make sure you placed the two red and the green wires on the battery side of the Solenoid big posts.

[97ccds-custom]

Sergio, yes when the pre-charge is in place I hear a click, but when I disconnect the pre-charge resistor (green) I don't get any clicks.

I'm not following what you mean about the two red and green wires on the battery side of the Solenoid big posts. I've attached images to see if you can tell me what you mean. I've also included an edited wiring diagram to what I have built with the reduced reverse option removed (so not using J1 blue) and I added in the FN1 that I included with the switch.

[Sergio]

I was thinking of the regular Series controller cart upgrade, yours was upgraded from resistors so You only have the key switch wire.

The Solenoid wires are correct, except that the large cable lugs and the fuse should be in direct contact with the solenoid big post surface.

Do not place any other small ring connectors or washers between the main lugs and the solenoid posts.

All smaller gauge wires go on top of the large current carrying lugs/fuse.

That also applies to battery posts.

You may want to also move the cable from Solenoid to Controller B+ a little so it is not so close to your negative activation small post (J1 black).

The pre-charge resistor has nothing to do with the Solenoid activation, so maybe you left something else disconnected during the process of removing the wire (or the FNR was in Neutral).

Do You get +48v on the Solenoid small positive post (FNR ms1-commom) when you press the pedal?

If not, do You have +48v on the FNR ms1 N.O. terminal when the pedal is pressed?

If not, make sure the 3 amp fuse on the electronic pedal is not blown.

[97ccds-custom]

All sound advice. I did check the fuse and it appears to be fine. I'll move the lugs closer to the bottom of the posts. Does that also apply to the bus bar on the FNR? I have the cable lug in between the two nuts (one is backwards) on the longer bolt, but should I have the lug touching the copper bar?

So I'll go solenoid post base > cable end > resistor > washer > nut and on the other side solenoid post base > fuse > resistor > washer > nut.

On the other end of the fuse I was following the instructions in the Alltrax SR controller manual which had the lug end on the bottom side of the fuse and then everything else on top.