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Old 10-10-2019, 09:35 AM   #21
Henrymacomber
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Default Re: 2012 club car fuse blowing

Disconnected the white wire the goes from the solenoid to the s/g at the solenoid and I had continuity to ground. So the short must be in the s/g. Replacing it now
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Old 10-10-2019, 09:53 AM   #22
Fairtax4me
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Default Re: 2012 club car fuse blowing

Are either the blue or yellow wire frayed at the ends or have any rub marks where they could be touching the frame of the dash opening? It's a tight fit in there and I've had and seen that happen.
Often with the switch pulled out the wire harness gets moved so if any wire is rubbed through or touching it may not test "bad" for continuity until everything is back in place.
With the Blue and Yellow disconnected from the key switch, tape them off so they can't touch anything. Connect power at the battery, turn the key on and see if the problem persists.
Something else you can try is removing the red wire from the key switch and connecting the Blue and Red directly together and see if the cart then runs or if you still have the problem.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Henrymacomber View Post
Disconnected the white wire the goes from the solenoid to the s/g at the solenoid and I had continuity to ground. So the short must be in the s/g. Replacing it now
The white cable has nothing to do with the fuse. Depending how your meter works you will have continuity to ground on the white wire through the armature of the SG. That's a low resistance circuit, so most meters will show continuity there.
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Old 10-11-2019, 04:23 AM   #23
Henrymacomber
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Default Re: 2012 club car fuse blowing

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fairtax4me View Post
Are either the blue or yellow wire frayed at the ends or have any rub marks where they could be touching the frame of the dash opening? It's a tight fit in there and I've had and seen that happen.
Often with the switch pulled out the wire harness gets moved so if any wire is rubbed through or touching it may not test "bad" for continuity until everything is back in place.
With the Blue and Yellow disconnected from the key switch, tape them off so they can't touch anything. Connect power at the battery, turn the key on and see if the problem persists.
Something else you can try is removing the red wire from the key switch and connecting the Blue and Red directly together and see if the cart then runs or if you still have the problem.
Fairtax4me, I will try your recent suggestions, i saw no fraying of any type on the switch wires. hopefully today's the day I find the problem thank you for all your help



The white cable has nothing to do with the fuse. Depending how your meter works you will have continuity to ground on the white wire through the armature of the SG. That's a low resistance circuit, so most meters will show continuity there.
I wasted my time changing the s/g, what I thought was the answer, wasn't. I had the new s/g on the shelf, so I can just swap that back out, the bigger problem is, I still don't have the problem solved.
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Old 10-11-2019, 05:42 AM   #24
Henrymacomber
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Default Re: 2012 club car fuse blowing

None of the wires anywhere show any signs of fraying. I will try your recent suggestions and see what happens. I have a small 12 volt trailer marker light that I connected in place of the fuse, power goes through it but the bulb doesn't light? I know it works because it comes on when connected directly to the battery. Not sure why that happens??
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Old 10-11-2019, 06:53 AM   #25
Henrymacomber
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Default Re: 2012 club car fuse blowing

With the blue and yellow wires disconnected at the switch I turn on the key without blowing a fuse. It won't turn over because the blue isn't supplying power to the solenoid. Not to sound stupid, what did I just prove, or disprove?
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Old 10-11-2019, 08:15 AM   #26
lockman1
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Default Re: 2012 club car fuse blowing

The marker light won't illuminate because it needs a ground path, and the fuse is a straight +12 volts.

Your getting closer though... the blue wire supplies +12v to the solenoid, (which you understand),
the yellow wire supplies +12v to the oil light.
hook up the blue without the yellow and see if the fuse blows, if it does, there may be a short in the solenoid,
if not, try the yellow and not the blue... if it does, it could be a bad oil light, wiring to it, or the oil sending unit.

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Old 10-11-2019, 09:11 AM   #27
Fairtax4me
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Default Re: 2012 club car fuse blowing

Quote:
Originally Posted by Henrymacomber View Post
With the blue and yellow wires disconnected at the switch I turn on the key without blowing a fuse. It won't turn over because the blue isn't supplying power to the solenoid. Not to sound stupid, what did I just prove, or disprove?
You just proved that the issue is most likely in the circuits for either the Blue or Yellow wire. But not exactly Which one yet.
Connect Just the Blue wire, Leave the yellow disconnected, see if you can start it and run without blowing the fuse. If so, your problem is in the circuit with the Yellow wire, which should just be the oil level light on the dash. Once you have verified that the cart will start, and the fuse does not blow, With the key already on, touch the terminal of the yellow wire to the Blue wire at the key switch, and if there is a problem in the yellow wire circuit, the fuse will then pop.

If the fuse blows with Just the Blue wire connected, then it's possible the coil in the solenoid is damaged, and you'll then remove the Blue wire from the solenoid and re-test. Tape off the end so it can't touch anything.

There also may be a diode across the small terminals of the solenoid. If the diode has failed it is also essentially a short circuit, You can remove the diode for testing the circuit, see if the fuse does not blow with the diode removed.
You can also test the diode with a multimeter set to the Diode Test function. The diode should only show continuity in One direction. If it shoes continuity both ways, the diode has failed and should be replaced.


As per the bub not lighting.
The light bulb Will light assuming there is a short circuit present that is large enough to blow a fuse. A small light bulb typically only needs 1-2 amps to light. Any direct short that instantly pops a 10 amp fuse will allow the bulb to light. The only exception to this would be if the short is through another resistance load, such as another light bulb, the windings of a motor, solenoid, etc., that will provide just enough resistance in the circuit to maintain a lower current flow than what it takes to illuminate the bulb. In this case, stepping down to an even smaller bulb will then allow the bulb to light up.

When there is a low-resistance (short) path to ground, current flows through the circuit to the point of the short. Even when none of the intended loads of the circuit are actually in operation at the time, the fuse blows.
So assuming that path is still present at the time of testing, the bulb will light to indicate there is current moving through the circuit.
If the light does not illuminate, that's because there is not sufficient current flow to allow the bulb to light, at least at the time of testing.
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Old 10-14-2019, 12:43 PM   #28
Henrymacomber
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Default Re: 2012 club car fuse blowing

I've been off since last Friday so I haven't tried the latest suggestions. Holiday weekend is over, back at it tomorrow.
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Old 10-15-2019, 06:10 AM   #29
Henrymacomber
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Default Re: 2012 club car fuse blowing

Back at it this morning. Disconnected the yellow wire from the oil light rather than cutting the terminal (again) and I got the same results, turn the key on, fuse pops! I discovered something odd, if I disconnect the battery, turn the key on, then reconnect the battery the fuse don't blow? Makes no sense??
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Old 10-15-2019, 09:15 AM   #30
Henrymacomber
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Default Re: 2012 club car fuse blowing

The action of turning the key on or off pop's the fuse. If I disconnect the battery, turn the key on, and reconnect the battery it starts. Then if I turn the key off without disconnecting the battery it pop's the fuse. This is getting ridiculous, I don't understand why it's doing this.
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