Voltage reducer question

[Goober11]

Installing a 36v to 12v reducer on a 1998 TXT. To cut down on the connections at the batteries can I run my input to the reducer from B+ an B- off the controller.


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[Goober11]

It is a series drive


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[yurtle]

I powered mine from the battery charger port. It has two 8 AWG cables that already go to pack positive and negative. Also next to where I installed it.

[Goober11]

Thanks
yurtle that is even better. I am installing it there also. How did you connect to it.


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[yurtle]

I ran 8 or 10 AWG, can't remember, with ring terminals inside the charger port. I had to file out the holes on the body, to allow two wires to emerge. I don't think I have pics, but with the attached, you'll get the point. Mine had a trigger wire, which I fed from a three position key switch. From the output, I ran two wires capable of 30 amps to a Blue Sea fuse block which has a negative bus.

Let us know if yours has a trigger wire, whether you have a 2 or 3 position key switch, and how you want to turn it on and off - key switch for example.

[yurtle]

I mounted my reducer and fuse block to angle steel I had.

My reducer had a trigger wire and only one negative, which served as negative in and out.

The only reason for my compact installation is I also have eight T-105s under the seat, so it was cramped. Normally you'd have tons of room to make access and air circulation better.

[Goober11]

Originally Posted by yurtle

I ran 8 or 10 AWG, can't remember, with ring terminals inside the charger port. I had to file out the holes on the body, to allow two wires to emerge. I don't think I have pics, but with the attached, you'll get the point. Mine had a trigger wire, which I fed from a three position key switch. From the output, I ran two wires capable of 30 amps to a Blue Sea fuse block which has a negative bus.

Let us know if yours has a trigger wire, whether you have a 2 or 3 position key switch, and how you want to turn it on and off - key switch for example.

Thanks yurtle . that makes it very simple. Yes I do have a trigger wire and a fuse block with a ground. The cart has a 2 position switch. would like to turn off an on with the key.

[yurtle]

Sergio came up with a "wish I'd have thought of that" idea. If you are familiar with the solenoid activation circuit, pack positive goes from charger port, through reed switch, through FNR MS2, through key switch KSI, through throttle MS3, to solenoid and controller. Simply reverse MS2 and KSI in the sequence and you can trigger it from the key switch "out" spade terminal. You can either use a spade terminal splitter, which I don't like, or simply cut the old on off and put a new one on the green wire.

[Goober11]

Originally Posted by yurtle

Sergio came up with a "wish I'd have thought of that" idea. If you are familiar with the solenoid activation circuit, pack positive goes from charger port, through reed switch, through FNR MS2, through key switch KSI, through throttle MS3, to solenoid and controller. Simply reverse MS2 and KSI in the sequence and you can trigger it from the key switch "out" spade terminal. You can either use a spade terminal splitter, which I don't like, or simply cut the old on off and put a new one on the green wire.

This is the first Ezgo I have worked on. I will do my best on hooking it up that way. Mechanical I am fine (45 years diesel mechanic) electrical overwhelms me at times. In the process I may asked for more help.

[yurtle]

That's what we're here for!

If you don't mind it turning off briefly while you change from forward to neutral, then no real rewiring is required. Just do what I suggested with the key switch green wire. If you do that, you can always finish the rewiring later, which isn't as daunting as it sounds. Have you done any electrical work at all? Cars, motorcycles or home? It's only a little different than cars/trucks/bikes, in that there is no negative ground to chassis.