Yamaha G2 Vs. Ninja 750 Motor

[Atmosphere31]

So, It turns out i didnt receive notification of the replies. So thanks everyone.

Originally Posted by JRL

That's a big (dimensionally) motor. A solid axle is the way to go. No reverse, but if electric cart, no reverse anyway. The "locked" axle won't stop you from turning.
The orig rear is too complicated to dink with. Be sure and get all electronics off the donor scoot. If old ZX, some electronics could be hard to find and expensive. Very little I overlap for electricals. None for the main harness. Some older Kaw street bikes had matched anti-theft key switch. No fire without the match. You can do a work around but it's tedious. Before beginning your project, get the engine running properly. Those things are famous for bad intake valves, and bad carbs. Ideally you'll want the complete donor for exhaust, meters, radiator...ad infinitum.
If the engine is fi, get the fuel tank and fuel pump. May not be useful if sitting for years. Aftermarket fuel pump can be adapted. The fuel pump isn't an issue with carbs. Any cheap low pressure pump will work with carbs.
Any large live axle ATV rear assembly can be scabbed on
May I ask what year scoot you're working with?

The bike is a 1987 ninja zx750. Its a full bike, so I will have no problem electrically. I have the know how to get that done. Im more or less looking for ideas of driveline.

Originally Posted by JRL

I'm going to offer a plan here. This is step one...more or less. The ZX750 would make a good cart engine. ZX750 was outclassed by CBR and GSXRs, and later ZX600. But it was an interesting ride with tons of torque. Didn't have to "stir" it constantly. Have to set the motor on blocks and calculate how much lift the cart will need to accomadate the engine height. Seat's gotta close. Easier to jack it up than cover up a high engine. IMHO.
WTH is a "Chuckwagon" cart.


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Well, Ill assume you know what chuckwagon races are in a rodeo? (my appologies if you dont) Its the same premise, just done with golf carts. I realize the motor is large, and im going to see what I can do to keep the body as low as possible, seeing as this is a race machine, a low center of gravity is essential.

[JRL]

Yep. I tried to associate “chuck wagon race” to golf cart...no go. I used my imagination Good to see you’re back at it. The rear drive will pretty much require a live axle arrangement such as from a 350 or larger chain drive Atv or desert racer setup. That setup will get good, useable shift points too. A stock cart transaxle will be soon destroyed by a 750. I would suggest, that if not already done, you get the motorcycle fired up and running well before embarking on fabrication. We will need pics and updates¡

[Atmosphere31]

Originally Posted by JRL

Yep. I tried to associate “chuck wagon race” to golf cart...no go. I used my imagination Good to see you’re back at it. The rear drive will pretty much require a live axle arrangement such as from a 350 or larger chain drive Atv or desert racer setup. That setup will get good, useable shift points too. A stock cart transaxle will be soon destroyed by a 750. I would suggest, that if not already done, you get the motorcycle fired up and running well before embarking on fabrication. We will need pics and updates¡

Yes, the first thing on my list is to get it running. I didn't realize that some of the bikes had "security keys" and mine is missing the whole ignition switch, so I'll have to buy one and hope for the best. Due to me only having a small garage that isn't big enough for the cart, I think fab work will have to wait until spring unfortunately. Unless I can find somewhere else to park it Indoors. I will edit my original post to include a couple photos of where I'm starting from.


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[Atmosphere31]

I guess I lied! I'm not sure how to edit a post so I will throw some here. Also a bad picture of the bike for reference.

[JRL]

Pics are good! The key was not the problem. The switch itself has a specific resistance that matched the ignitor. Connect the brown wire (ignition) to the white wire (B+) and jump the starter at the solenoid and check for fire at the spark plugs (remove the plugs and drop a few cc's of thin oil into the plug holes. Then lay a rag over the engine). If the plugs fires continously, any switch will work. No anti theft. If the plugs fire once or twice and quit firing...you have half of an anti theft system.
Jumping the starter requires that you assure the transmission is in neutral, or if chain is on, the scoot will roll forward when starter engages. Roll forward and up goes the kickstand, and it falls to the left side. 500 lbs. Bummer.
When jumping the solenoid for start, you are overriding the side stand, neutral and clutch lever interlock. Be careful.
I wouldn't buy a Kaw switch. You'll install something better suited to your cart dash. Any Carling or 12v switch will serve as ignition switch if you get continuous fire at the plugs.
The kaw ig switch has multiple wires that power park lights and other accessories. The solid brown wire is ignition. The handlebar "run" switch must also be "on" to power up ignition.
Good luck!

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[Atmosphere31]

Thanks for the info! My plan was to order the kaw switch only to keep all features the bike has and transfer to the cart. Minus the unneeded sensors (stand, hand brake etc). The bike has been sitting roughly 2 years now so a carb clean is in the schedule too. Anything else I should look for??
I was going to use a speedo from eBay, and just use the magnet speedo wheel sensors that come with, cause I have no idea how I'd make the bike speedo work with the cart due to the different tire size.


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[JRL]

The bike speedo has a gear drive in the front wheel. Unsure how, but probably could be driven off one of the front wheels. No point as it would be looking for an 18 or 19" tire. Way off.
Re the carbs, identify the pilot jets and carefully remove and clean. Clean any passages located in the bowls. Don't disassemble the carb rack. Just pop off bowls and tops. Check the diaphragms. If damaged or rotted, they must be replaced. Keep all needles and jets organized to their respective carbs. Some have different calibrations between the two center cylinders (2 and 3l vs #1 and 4. Most kits have new pilot jets and main jets. The pilots should stay stock sized. The mains can be increased one size. If you plan to use the stock airbox, leave the jets all stock sized. If not...well. You'll get to install a high performance kit. Easy to install, tough to get right.
Don't soak the carb bodies. OK to soak the bowls and any hard part such as jets. Use brake cleaner and compressed air to clean air passages in the bodies.
Don't turn the balance screws. All butterfly's should be similarly positioned. If not, someone's tried to correct (compensate) something...? The carbs will require balancing if the balance screws are adjusted.
The air screws can be removed, but be sure and fish out the springs, washer, and 'O' ring from each. The discharge nozzles can be gently knocked out thru the top once main jets are removed.
Pay attention to the discharge nozzles as they may be differently calibrated for 2 and 3 cyls. May not. And, you might have a jet kit already so look at what numbers came from where.
That oughta get you started!

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[JRL]

Last post for the night. FWIW, that engine does not require a speed input to operate correctly...

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[rifter]

I used that same model Yamaha cart to build my first Bike Engine cart. With your engine being carb you should be able to keep it under the cowl and maybe not have to extend the wheelbase. Front suspension has alot to be desired with the camber always changing but a good set of shocks will stiffen it up some. Good luck and be safe.

[Atmosphere31]

Originally Posted by rifter

I used that same model Yamaha cart to build my first Bike Engine cart. With your engine being carb you should be able to keep it under the cowl and maybe not have to extend the wheelbase. Front suspension has alot to be desired with the camber always changing but a good set of shocks will stiffen it up some. Good luck and be safe.

I do have some stiffer shocks I'm going to use from a different machine. I plan on widening my track width about 4 inches so I'm hoping to be able to do new A-arms and get the suspension the way I want it. Do you have any photos of your build to share?


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