No clicks no controller no Key!

[Peth0201]

Yamaha Drive 2. Navitas 440Am controller. DC.

Cart was working during the summer. Towards fall, the cart would hit high acceration and start to cut out. I decided to change to a heavy duty solenoid.

Battery pack 51v.

I have all accessories connected to the key - and nothing is working.

The light on the controller isn't working. No clicks from the cart.

Could this be a bad HD solenoid?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09Q5LV21R...roduct_details

I did not instal the resistor. Should I also disconnect the small resistor that is prewired from yamaha? Any help would be greatly apprecaited.

[Peth0201]

I figured out the issue and just wanted to post.

Hot Red Wire in harness to the Run/Tow switch was corroded or weak. I took a new wire from the Tow Run switch and placed it on the large solenoid terminal coming off of the battery pack. Hope this helps someone else!

[scottyb]

Glad you fixed it. Thanks for posting the solution. Somebody is going to thank you in the future!
Enjoy the rides

[roostersgt]

Originally Posted by Peth0201

I figured out the issue and just wanted to post.

Hot Red Wire in harness to the Run/Tow switch was corroded or weak. I took a new wire from the Tow Run switch and placed it on the large solenoid terminal coming off of the battery pack. Hope this helps someone else!

Did you run sometime of test and learned the problem, or just noticed corrosion and played process of elimination? Having same issue with G19 right now. Shop thinks it may be DCS controller issue, 80-90% sure. $800-$900 problem if that's the case.

[jasonojordan]

The Navitas controllers have an app as well that will help with narrowing things down. Their customer service is also top notch.

[Peth0201]

Originally Posted by roostersgt

Did you run sometime of test and learned the problem, or just noticed corrosion and played process of elimination? Having same issue with G19 right now. Shop thinks it may be DCS controller issue, 80-90% sure. $800-$900 problem if that's the case.

Sorry for the late response. I'm sure you came up with a solution. There was no power to the run/tow switch switch so I replaced the wires.

[western.golf]

I was going to guess fuse but good to see you narrowed down to the hot wire (run/tow switch)

Good to see the navitas 440 and DC motor, I'm looking at similar config to save some money. Although the conversion kit is end goal.

Is the 440 controller reusable, or needs a new 440a for the AC motor, if need to switch?

[ojo]

Originally Posted by western.golf

Is the 440 controller reusable, or needs a new 440a for the AC motor, if need to switch?

A DC cart works with an DC controller, a AC cart needs an AC controller, totally different!

[Volt_Ampere]

There are no controllers out there that can do either DC or AC so it's important to make your decision before you upgrade the controller.

[Peth0201]

WG I think there are only two options you should consider with your current Hitachi Motor. Speeding up as cheap as possible or replacing it.

Go to a dealer and pay the $150 for them to "unlock" the existing Moric controller. You'll get 17-20 MPH pending on battery pack. (You'll get maybe 1-2 MPH more from the Navitas.)

Or

Get the AC Conversion kit.

I had a controller blow out on me which is why i went to the DC 440 Amp Navitas originally.

HOWEVER, after about a year the Hitachi motor started going out - the controller pushes it too hard. You don't want to find yourself in my postion - having to pony up for an Executioner from Quick Plum or get into the AC motor game a year after spending all of that money on a DC Controller.

I went to the AC conversion kit a few weeks back. Having said that - I love the AC motor conversion. I'm getting 30-32 MPH on flat terrain and I drove it 20 miles with WOT with 61% battery discharge left. I could have went another 5 miles hammering it. Very efficient.